Search:

It was the switch. I bought an identical factory replacement for now but may still either change the motor starter and switch systems.

Every screw I’ve used from Hafele was a pozi drive.

I like Spax screws mainly, they’re great.

Again if you laminate the stiles, then you can just cut the main mortise with a dado stack. This is a common construction method for doors.

A 4” wide lock means the depth of cut is 4”.

Not sure how well a domino will stand in as a lock mortiser. Sometimes the lock bodies are 4” wide.

If the stiles are laminated, you can cut the lock mortise with a dado stack. I built 25 9’ tall doors recently and did it this way.

Thanks Kevin and Jim! All things to consider.

The 100L frame motor is fairly common in my shop so I don’t mind having a spare 3ph motor and VFD handy.

Looking more and more like the switch…

240v coming in, but not going out. Thanks, Dan for setting me straight on this. In the past for 3ph equipment I have simple checked across each terminal...

I’ll test that later tonight.

Dan, that page won’t load for me, it’s an Eaton starter/switch.

I checked the switch and it was showing 120v at both legs on the output. Is this a faulty testing method?

That switch is going and being replaced by typical push button switches.

I checked the centrifugal switch and it appears to be functional.

Dan, just measured as you suggested and you are correct it shows 0v across the terminals but 120v at each individually.

Connections are all tight. I’m getting 120v because I’m checking one leg to neutral at a time.

I’ll check to see if the switch is stuck open.

Spoke with Hitachi and they recommended the WJ200-075. Seems overkill for this but buying once is cheaper than twice.

On the tablesaw I used a big resister to slow it to a quick stop. For this...

Spoke to Sam, he thought it might be the switches.

Both local motor shops are a booked for a month.

Between cost of replacement switches, downtime and cost of repair, I decided just to replace...

Richard, I’m not sure.

Spoke with SCM, there are no internal overloads, so he thinks if the motor doesn’t do anything with power supplied that it is dead.

Prognosis is that the single phase motor on my saw is dead so I’m replacing it with a 3ph motor. The replacement 1ph metric motors are fairly expensive in this size range.


Motor I found is 240v...

When I shut the switch off the 120v goes to zero, as it should.

All the single phase equipment on this machine is going flying into orbit soon.

I have 120v on all circuits when I press the start button. The button holds and provides 120v to the motor and coils…..yet….nothing happens.

I’m at a loss as to why it doesn’t hum or try to start...

I’ve got 120v at each lead inside the motor when I push the start button so I’m assuming they are good.

I went to start the MM20 today and it was non-functional.

Single phase 240v setup.

I started investigating the point of failure and have discovered that:

-The switch appears to be...

Try a different hose, then try a different regulator. Seems like something is caught somewhere and airflow causes it to jam up.