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Thanks everybody. I’ll keep the project on hold until down the road when I collect a faster motor.

I really need dust collection for vintage equipment (planer, jointer, bandsaw) but I’m on an extremely tight budget. I have this vintage 2 HP Wagner in the rats nest that came off of an air...

I’m well beyond that point. Thanks. Like I said, the plate is well seated in the back. I was asking about usability.

Nah. Just slight a bend and twist.

This one is far from a sidewinder. Maybe more of a night crawler. Not real obvious, but if looking for it you see it. The one tooth line photo is pretty...

Thanks. This is what I was asking. Hopefully other will chime in as well.

How straight does a tenon saw plate and tooth line need to be to cut square cheeks? I imagine it has to be next to perfect.

I’ve refurbished a Disston 14” tenon saw and installed a new saw plate...

Ah, there we go. In fact that’s one of the hammers I use. Thanks for the clarification Steven.

No offense, Steve, but using a ball peen hammer is bad advice. Please use a slightly rounded faced hammer head. A ball peen pin points too much on a very small area and will mar the heck out of a saw...

I used to do this too. However, beware that bends and slight kinks can be hidden only for a time by re-bending and hand manipulating. It’s not a true straightening, only cosmetic. Take the Bob...

LOL! Good point. But, while not a lunch box, my planer would handle it. The plank would probably be a bit smaller that if hand planed, however.

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Agreed. You don’t need flat to scrub.

I’ll check Tom Johnson’s videos. Thanks for the tip.

Professional refinishing caught my interest during my freshman year in art school when I occasionally moved furniture for a fine furniture...

I’ve enjoyed the occasional video from this content provider from across the pond and thought I’d share a couple videos here for your viewing pleasure. It’s always interesting to me to see how others...

Hmm, I say while nodding. You must have Popeye-sized forearms to use a hulking No. 6 as a jack for hogging off material. Now, while I myself am no slouch at arm wrestling, I’d loath using a No. 6 for...

A No. 6 Stanley Bailey. It was my first bench plane purchase. I’ve not lost sleep over it or anything, but I do regret it. It’s a size that does not lend itself to a clear role in my shop. It doesn’t...

You must not be planing and sawing on the pull stroke, yowza!

Groovy, Derek. Mid century modern, or, I prefer the misnomer “teak.” I’m glad you posted. It’s nice to see your techniques. Now where’s my martini?

I think you are closer to flat than not. I’d stick with this one and just tune it up a little.

No. Younger guy in the trades. I’ll dig around this weekend.

Agreed! You want your jointer (or technically in your case, your “try”) to be FLAT, flat. The good news is yours is not in the oft-seen and feared banana shape. It looks like a keeper to me. Judging...

Thanks guys! Not to leave anyone in the lurch, but I’m taking a bit of a break to take care of the family. Stomach flu hitting us hard. I’ll be back soon.

Now the tote...

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Citristrip worked great on this one. Here is the second coat. It didn’t need two... I removed the first after three minutes to check how it was behaving. It sat for a walk...

Continuing work on the blade. The following Process I owe to Mark Harrell of Bad Axe.

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Wizards Metal Renew, a Scotchbrite pad, a Sandflex block, an ultra fine sanding block,...

Okay, the work begins...

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When possible, I like to use a putty knife on the thin slots of the saw nuts so as not to damage the soft brass. I keep thinking I’ll get around to dressing a...

Will do. I use Bob Smalser’s step by step hammer truing process he posted somewhere (maybe here).

Found the link......