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Mineral oil

I use water. The ground metal floats off...

It's red oak. White oak is also very nice. A bit more refined looking, but it was less available when I had my flooring milled, so everything is red.

Keep in mind that the silica gel will be hydrated within days (and thereafter, useless) if the box isn't tightly sealed.

I would keep it coated with Boeshield T9.

There are a thousand ways to skin a cat. Because the lumber is the cheap part for me, I'd rather just make it all thick - a preference, I suppose.

Thanks for the kind words. I can't claim to be an expert, but feel free to ask away. I've learned much from this site, so now that I have a few more spare minutes these days, I'm trying to give...

Here is a "just before" picture that I just found of the first picture series. If I find a true before picture (with carpet) I'll post it for fun, too....

Photos of your interior will be indispensable in getting on-target recommendations. It's a rancher, but some are more "ranch" than others...

Second set.

An overview shot:
http://redboston.com/miscfora/entry1.jpg


A little closer on the stairs going to 2nd floor:
http://redboston.com/miscfora/entry2.jpg

A few pictures. It turns out that the only standard return that I have had the opportunity to install thus far, I accidentally ripped the thing off. I was so focused on the mitered risers and how...

If it is, I'm in in trouble! :p Per Mr. Wolf's recommendation to me in another thread, I'm using trim screws and then plugging the holes. 6 screws per tread and PL400 heavy duty construction...

Keep in mind that the cost of the lumber is the cheap part of this whole endeavor if you value your time at all...



Treads that are 1" thick, finished, look good. Do you mean 4/4 rough or...

As far as returns go, it's comes down to an aesthetic/tradition/labor preference. I went with bullnose endgrain and with proper preparation, it finishes very well. I'll take some detailed pictures...

Looks good... The space in which it resides looks interesting as well.

As a form-meets-function decision, I'd have reversed the pins and tails. How did you decide?

How you will be finishing also makes a difference. I stop at 150 when I paint, but go to 220 for clear finishes. The 100 grit step is quick and it knocks down the blade nick ridges mentioned in...

100, then 150, then 220 works very well. This progression skips 1 grit size between each grit you actually use to get to 220, which I've found is the most efficient way to sand. 80 to 120 to 180...

It's simple, do unto others...yada, yada, yada. While apparently quaint, it makes the world a better place in my opinion. If they omitted the clamps, or maybe the rip fence, would Jet have been...

Ain't that the truth. Amazon has a 12 V kit for 80 clams, free shipping.

Light passes, and a 3/4" roundover is easily doable with a handheld router.

Weird website, but they came recommended to me and I've used them to rebuild some 9.6V Makitas - good cells and they are still going strong...

http://www.primecell.com/pctools.htm

Here's a few in East Tennessee.

Why don't you send the extras back? (on Jet's dime, of course)

$32.16, free shipping, 11.5" DMT fine.
http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D11F-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Sharpening/dp/B0001WP1HO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1213896695&sr=8-1

$62.14, free shipping, 11" DMT...

Dave-

If you are going to invest in a sharpening system from ground zero, avoid stones, unless you are bent on tradition. Personally, when doing the utilitarian-yet-still-required things in...