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It's white oak. I'll give it a shot with face coating. What can it hurt?

I just wanted to re-visit this thread to update those kind enough to leave suggestions.

Worked with my sawyer to discuss the goals, and largely went with the "+" sign approach to quartersawing the...

Looking for thoughts on how to dry something like this:

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I realize with circular grain like this it's almost guaranteed to crack, just looking to minimize the effects.
I'm coating other...

Warren, I'll run the math tomorrow on potential slab size, but I like the suggestion. This is why I come here.

Moving stuff of this size makes me glad that my other hobby is weightlifting. ...

Hey all, looking for some advice.

In the next few weeks I'm having a larger white oak felled that died last year. At chest height the diameter is 28", and I'm estimate 25' before the first...

Jim,

Good eye for detail, I missed that slight difference in the lateral adjustment area.

Steven,

Thanks for the Ohio Tool pics. The lateral adjustment looks very similar (the pic is a...

Perhaps this is a Franken plane. Searching for Union planes lead me to this posting. The author identifies it as an 1880's era Stanley. It's an identical frog and bed, but with a different lateral...

Additional pictures as requested:

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Hey all, I was hoping you might help ID a plane. I picked this up for free. The only marks on it are No. 7. Possibly a Sargent? I'd like to know so I can get info for making a missing rear tote...

I wish I had the story of how it got that bad.

As promised, some additional pictures.

The patent dates of the #8C:
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The frog of the #8:
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The 608C as it stands today, soaking in PB blaster, waiting to weld on some nuts to...

So, a correction. My notes were off, the hollow is 2.5 thou, or .06 mm. My bad!

I have a 3hp Acme edge sander with a flat platten 26" long. Checking with a Veritas precision straight edge...

Hey all,

Getting started on restoring a bunch of planes I've picked up over the years. One of them is a Bailey #8C. However, I just noticed that there is a cupped wear right in front of the...

All,

Just a quick update. I did complete this this weekend successfully. Well, mostly.

Results:
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Method:
Ran the circ saw down the lines, and again with overlapping cuts; for a...

Some feedback:

When cleaning up the worm-rotted surface that you can now see in the pic what I did was a full depth circ saw pass about an inch in from the face, then took it over to the bandsaw. ...

Finshed surface is unimportant, as it's all hidden. Tolerance of about 1/4" or so. I.E. very rough is totally fine.

Drill press is a Powermatic 1150, so I do have 6" of travel, so this is probably what I'll be doing. This is going to be some work...

Hey folks, looking for some advise on how to make this cut:

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Some background, helping a friend turn an piece of a fallen family barn timber into a mantle. This cut is to help sleeve it...

Yes, most of the tools are indeed mobile. Somewhat of a double edged sword, as it allowed me to be pretty haphazard in how I set them up. Sometimes that's a good thing, usually it just meant more...

With winter fast approaching, and my desire for more tools having left me with more to try and store, I'm looking for a good shop layout.


I've got a bit of an oddball setup, with shop space...

Ian,

Thanks for the concern. However, the lack of silicone is precisely why I use the Johnson wax, not an automotive one.
...

Thanks for all the input guys!

I realized that I never did talk about location. The hand tools are stored inside in a very dry basement shop. Power tools are out in the garage that does see...

As the thread says, looking to see what oils you guys use on your hand tools. Do you use the same for all the tools? How do you apply it? Do you instead prefer using the anti-corrosive inhibitors...