I got some 7/16 OSB at Lowes for around $5 a sheet, but that was almost two years ago. Don't know if they still carry it or how much it is, at the time it was right around the same price as a 4x8...
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I got some 7/16 OSB at Lowes for around $5 a sheet, but that was almost two years ago. Don't know if they still carry it or how much it is, at the time it was right around the same price as a 4x8...
I'm not so sure it's comparable to the Kapex. Beyond the new arms, it looks like the same old Bosch saw. Unless rear clearance is an issue, I don't see any compelling reason to get it.
I think that's a link to the message in your hotmail account ...
That is so blindingly obvious ... :o
On the bandsaw, you could create multiple lines to grab all the dust. See the bandsaw section of my dust collection page for how I did mine.
For a miter saw, a hood is the only really effective...
I would think so, but a call to Forrest with exact details of what you're cutting would be a wise thing to do.
That, sir, is clever!
Yeah, I would change to the Chopmaster instead. As I understand it, a positive hook blade (where the edge is tilted "forward" into the direction of rotation) is much more likely to catch and go...
As is often repeated, watch for used cabinet saws locally. I just sold a one-year-old Grizzly 1023SL for $500.
Where do you see that?
Even the best companies make mistakes. I've bought a tablesaw, 8" jointer, drill press, and 3hp cyclone from Grizzly and they've been great. Nothing other than minor issues and Grizzly took care of...
Hmm, looks like that Forrest blade has a positive hook angle, that should only be used on a saw that's pulling the wood against a stop. If your miter saw's a slider, you should switch to a negative...
As long as the material's not too flexible/thin, any wood blade should work fine. Just make sure the blade has a negative hook angle. If it's on a chop saw, it should have that anyway.
I'm nearing the finish line on my extension/router table project. I had been planning to put in a t-track/mitre slot and did some searching on the preferred distance from the bit. I've seen...
I've been happy with Highpoint screws from WoodCraft. Not as large a selection as McFeeley's in finishes and sizes, but considerably less expensive, too.
Local code allowed exposed wiring if over 8' above finished floor level, so I make all the runs at ceiling level (10') in PVC conduit clamps that have 1/4 cut off the top end. Drops are in conduit.
Lots of great advice here. Let me throw in one other recommendation: Learn to use it safely. I mean really, really learn, preferably from someone who know what they're doing. Chain saw safety is...
I bought my sawstop, bandsaw & lathe from the local woodcraft because they worked to beat online prices. Drum sander off craiglist. Drill press, cyclone, 8" jointer, and previous table saw from...
I don't have data to back it up, but have always heard that smaller blades are more precise, less wobble / deflection. Makes sense on the surface.
AFAIK, 12" models have barely any more width capacity than 10", it's the thickness capacity that's greater.
I don't remember the first cut, that was about 40 years ago. But I do remember first using my then-new 1023SL, upgrading from a contractor saw about 18 months ago. Astounding how much smoother and...
Exactly, now you can be careless and irresponsible since the SS gives you a false sense of security! (runs for cover)
I agree, the guard dust system isn't a great as claimed. I think it would be much improved if the side wings stayed parallel to the table like the PM2000 does.
Wow, brand new and 50% off. That's an awesome score and you most definitely suck.
Congratulations! That's one fine saw, if I may say so myself :D
Check out my blog, http://www.thewoodnerd.com/blog, back in late January when I got my SawStop. I had several entries about issues...