I don't think it's been mentioned but the factory body rust warranty will be voided for that panel if a body shop fixes it. No way I'd take it at any discount, make them replace the panel before you...
Type: Posts; User: John Lanciani; Keyword(s):
I don't think it's been mentioned but the factory body rust warranty will be voided for that panel if a body shop fixes it. No way I'd take it at any discount, make them replace the panel before you...
Be forewarned, Renovo will tell you a part is in stock, charge you for it, and then ship the part when they are good and ready. Last time I waited 6 months for a part that was listed as in stock when...
Looks to me that the patent in question has already expired?
https://patents.google.com/patent/US9724840B2/en
You're welcome Jerry, thanks for the update.
Price all of your options with a full set of replacement inserts and mounting screws, (or two, you never know when proprietary inserts will become unavailable and they'll always be more expensive...
Mine too, it loves the snow. I'd never sacrifice shop time just to keep the car dry.
As a long time Subaru owner this makes me sad for some reason...
Bearings for that jointer are only 20 bucks, insert head costs more than the machine is worth. Seems an easy decision to me.
The plate is straight and parallel, goes in either way. You have to pinch the wedges together to get the plate to slide in, lubricate everything generously before you start. A spring from a click...
There's a difference between "2hp" from Harbor Freight and Oneida for example. We need more information about what you're working with to be able to offer suggestions.
Just a question, what specific tool are you using for torqueing the inserts? 45 in/lbs is essentially only screwdriver tight.
I don't think there would be any real balance issue but you could always take the last insert out of every row to maintain balance if the machine showed excess vibration with one insert removed. I...
Take the last insert in a row off and use that screw until the replacements arrive if you really need to get back to work.
In the history of reparing used machinery, I don't think one person has ever said "I sure am glad that I didn't bother replacing those inexpensive 50 year old bearings with dried out grease in them".
Maybe I missed it, has the OP actually confirmed what exact saw is in question other than to say "A Rigid jobsite saw"? If not, everything posted is idle speculation at best.
The Veritas jig is completely adjustable in this regard.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/jigs-guides-and-fixtures/32251-veritas-shelf-drilling-jig?item=05J0303
Bearing is supposed to be a 6200, they cost a couple of bucks so not really worth fussing with. 3/4" blade is too much for the saw, 1/2" max.
The proper repair is to have it spray welded to build it back up and then either turned or ground back to size with the proper tolerance for the bearing. Anything less is just going to be temporary....
Honest question Tom; have you ever asked yourself why you're the only one beating this drum?
Delta has been making blade guards for their saws since the mid 1930's, CPSC was formed in 1972.
Clamp one side to your work surface and clamp your workpiece in the other.
"Perhaps the manufacturer didn't cave into the request for a free machine to review so the author didn't feel compelled to even mention it."
Or maybe the author asked for a lathe to review and...
Had my MM20 for +/-15 years. here is a list of things I never had to do;
Align the motor
Replace drive belts
Replace motor (or wheel) bearings
Replace tires
Or more likely, just to keep crap falling off the table from hitting the motor??? Nah, you're right; its more evidence of the great bandsaw motor conspiracy...
Maybe there's a big hole hacksawed...
That's a good way to burn up the grinder and the rheostat. Induction motors don't take kindly to low voltage.