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Hey guys, I bought a used Ridgid R4512 table saw that's equipped with the four-caster mobile base. I dismounted and disassembled the mobile base to clean off some rust, and after I reassembled the...

Success! I located some end-nippers that I'd ground down for another project. I'd ground the top of the nippers so that they were very sharp where the edges meet with basically no "V" on them and...

That's the first thing I tried. Because the shaft is captured in the body of the sander, I can only drive the key in one direction—toward the housing. I only succeeded in reshaping the driven end of...

So I'm still working on the A3 belt-sander rebuild, and still seeking guidance. Jonathan Martin's sander (mentioned in an earlier post in the thread) is apparently a slightly newer model with a...

I've always used oven cleaner spray. Lay the blade on a waste block of wood, spray the teeth, flip and repeat. 10-15 minutes later scrub any stubborn deposits with a tooth brush, rinse, and dry. I...

Searching the forum from Simon's owwm.org link yielded this very useful photo-rich rebuild post by Jonathan Martin:
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Thanks for the link, I'll check out the forum. I think the nut you reference is the one that retains the worm gear. The correct way to access it is probably by removing the nuts on the chain...

I ran my treasured antique Porter Cable A3 worm-drive dry, terrible blunder that I can remedy with new gears that I managed to find and buy, but I'm stumped as to how the armature shaft is properly...

I use the method Rob and others describe (use a knife or other tool to cut a slope in the proud portions of the drywall from the plane of the wall down toward edge of the jamb). I used a block plane...

I've been forced (due to lack of space) to keep my TS and jointer outdoors under an awning in a very humid environment. My experience with plastic covers is that they trap moisture/condensation as...

Crosscut sleds I've built tend age badly: the bed panel warps, wood runners swell, and the backing fence never seems to stay quite square, especially after the board is partially cut through.

Found out the batteries were the problem. Seems the rebuilders charge too much for shipping. Guess I'll need to buy all new batteries or a new tool (what a waste the latter seems to be).

Anyone know of a way to test the batteries? They read around 13V DC with my Radio Shack multi-meter set on voltsDC.

I have a 12V Makita (6980FDWDEX) impact driver that's worked great for about 4 years with its NiMh batteries under pretty heavy usage, but it's begun to act as though the batteries are dying....

Just wanted to thank everyone, especially Trace, who made a real effort and sent me some photos of his saw. I think that I've got the problem sussed. Couldn't have done it alone.

Mike

Got the first already, the .pdf is interesting, but doesn't have the sort of below-deck photo I need. But thanks anyway Michael.

Originally posted by Trace Beard


Thanks Trace! I'm hoping I'll be able to see the assemblies that lock the rotation of the base and (especially) the locking mechanism of the sliding carriage...

Hey Craig,
Appreciate the welcome, I'm sure the forum's resources and experienced users will be very handy. Maybe I'll even be able to help someone else out in the future. Thanks,

Mike

I'm new here, hoping to find someone able to send/post a photo of the underside of their Makita LS1O13. I'm a recent victim of a burglary, lost my old, old, makita chop saw and bought a display...