Hey Mark, I'm alive and well and making planes. Click on "how to order" on my home page for info on deposits, wait times, etc, or shoot me an email if you have any questions. I post semi-regularly on...
Type: Posts; User: Steve Voigt; Keyword(s):
Hey Mark, I'm alive and well and making planes. Click on "how to order" on my home page for info on deposits, wait times, etc, or shoot me an email if you have any questions. I post semi-regularly on...
Hey Bryan,
Any linseed oil based finish should work well. For a satin sheen with little to no film, I like the Tried and True products. For a harder, glossier film, Tru Oil is a good option. And as...
Guys, raw and boiled oils polymerize ("dry") in the same way; the only difference is that BLO dries faster because of the cobalt drier. They are both drying oils. They also oxidize, which is what...
Linseed oil does not evaporate. And I do know "real" restoration carpenters who have used it and like it.
With that said, there have been concerns about mildew in damp, shady environments. Tyler, if...
Tried and True is a good finish, if you apply it just like the directions say. Since you say it "leaves a heavy film on my hand" I think it's a safe bet that you applied it way too heavily, and...
On a traditional (not Krenov) woodie, this problem occurs when the wedge tips extend beyond the high point on the cap iron. For a traditional plane, I would prescribe the following fix:
- With...
The mocking tone is mostly coming from two professional trolls who are posting under fake names, and who have been banned from numerous forums, including this one. If you've been around for a while,...
This is terrible advice. Why would you advise someone to throw away the traditional, proven tool for dealing with twist?
Warren is 100% right here. I can only surmise that people who don't use...
If you are asking about grinding the hollows, there are a couple options. You can buy a thin wheel from Tools For Working Wood and shape it to a desired radius. Those wheels are expensive. A cheaper...
Glad to hear you had success following that article! :p Vintage tapered irons can vary widely in quality, but if you are getting 15-20 min at 20 degrees, it's probably excellent steel. As others...
I would drag the arrises across a fine stone, not a file. Files don't last long if you use them on hardened steel.
You (the OP) don't say what type of chisel…for a mortising chisel I would leave...
Hi Rafael,
A couple notes. The SG numbers you quoted from Dan's refer to THEIR "Washitas," which are not from the Pike mine. Everyone I've talked to who has used one of these stones says they are...
I don't want to be a downer, but the question of wear is pretty important. The reviews that several people have posted don't really tell us much about these "Washita" stones. A real Washita cuts...
Nah, Warren and I have been arguing about this for years. Neither will ever convince the other. :p It's nothing personal--he's been to my shop, and we've hung out at LN shows and W'burg a bunch of...
Warren,
I suppose if one's goal is to maintain a cheap India stone in pristine condition forever, then your method is a good strategy. On the other hand, if one wants a stone that works...
I had the same reaction…I used a 8" x 3" x 1/2"-thick India stone for about five years, working close to full time in the shop, and it lost about 1/8" in thickness. I'd normally abrade it once every...
Rich, I made a couple planes like this, years ago, before I took the plunge and started making one-piece mortised planes. One thing I will suggest is that you put two pins (e.g. 1/4" dowels) through...
Cool story, Rob!
Konrad has already posted a bunch of pics of these planes on his Instagram feed. Just look up Sauer and Steiner on the app.
Nope, it is a high-carbon tool steel, a little higher in carbon than O1. Still commonly used in Britain. Not much different than the 1095 used by modern sawmakers.
Glad to hear you are getting good results. One small suggestion: try opening the mouth back up. Generally speaking, you should either use the mouth or the chipbreaker to control tear-out, but not...
Hey Ken,
It's Marples, most likely pre-war; they phased out the octagonal bolsters in the late 40s.
I also like the plain boxwood handles of the type in your pic. If i get one of those and the...
I like these. Don't even need a lathe.
440358
Maybe Derek hasn't responded to your question because it's incredibly insulting, as were your suggestions that he is "playing the victim." You claim that you don't take criticism personally, but...
Geez Will, your reply is quite defensive, as were your responses to Derek and Ken. There is no need. No one is attacking you personally. A number of us simply disagree that such a tool is a wise...
I think you've misunderstood Jim's point, and you seem to be equating the amount of money spent (on jigs and stones) with the quality of the edge, which is certainly not true. Jim's point was not...