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I often sand a cured coat of arm-r-seal with either a festool or abralon pad - 500grit should knock the sheen down from satin. I usually use 1000 grit which yields more sheen than you describe. I...

"Thin it 'til it flows, and then thin it some more" -- my favorite piece of finishing advise from an Uncle who's laid down miles of finish.

In a word, yes.. The light sanding is the key.

I've used it on our sapele kitchen island. The island houses a sink and is subject to lots of abuse. The finish has held up incredibly well over the year and a half it's been on.

That's a very cool solution, thanks for sharing. My solution is a lot less elegant, a 5" port in each door. It works well enough that I just ignore the OEM dust port.
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I've used it some recently to satisfy my own curiosity. I don't find one coat to be sufficient. If you follow the instructions on the can, you will end up with a finish that is very flat and looks...

That is hands down the most beautiful piece of SYP furniture I’ve seen. Well done.

The carbide Tersas in my J/P lasted about 10x the HSS.

I saw this piece in person last year at AWFS and it is absolutely epic!

Beautifully done! I really like that center panel.

What a great idea for a thread. There's some really cool work submitted so far.
Here are a couple pieces I made this year. The first is a mid-century modern tv console for a local audiophile. It...

Sorry, I forgot to specify the model. The last gallon I sprayed was labeled t75f18.

I don’t recall which of the vinyl sealers I used. I certainly never specified when I bought it. I use garden variety lacquer thinner and retarder. Whatever is available at the local store.
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I've used the CAB Acrylic quite a bit and it sounds like it would meet your needs. I've typically used it with a sanding sealer underneath, but I don't think it's necessary on bare wood.

That makes my MM24 look rather puny.

Yes, I had a metal worker friend cut a hole in each door of my MM24 for a 5" hose. They work so well, I don't even hook up the factory ~4" port anymore! I opted for placing them in the doors rather...

The beauty of the RTM system is very little waste. You only mix as much as you need. Much less waste than buying a can for a project and then letting the left over sit around forever.

I started using the RTM stains a few years ago. I haven't used them on any soft wood, but I have used them on some blotch-prone cherry with good results. I like to use it as a spray and wipe -...

I'm using the polyx oil for the first time right now on a jatoba countertop. I've followed the methods outlined in the FWW article to the letter and am so far impressed with the results. The...

I use the Tenryu SL-26072. It makes a very clean cut and is fairly inexpensive compared to the competitors.

I wear a TH4 Hemp Tilley about 10 months out of the year. In the winter, the bald head gets to see the sun. It's Texas, Y'all!

I have a Best Fence Pro 4 for my Kapex. It's very solid and easy to move around. I don't move mine often, so there's a bit of head scratching when I do. Even with the head scratching, it takes...

I do buy from Roddis on occasion when Dakota doesn't have a specialty plywood that I need. The only Baltic I've used has been from Dakota. I'm not sure what grade it is, but it had the football...

Dakota Hardwoods is by far my favorite. They have selection of hardwood, plywood, and hardware at consistently good prices. Alamo is a great place for exotics or for that one special board for a...

If the machine isn't too far away, consider hiring a flat bed wrecker. Put the machine on skates and then have the driver winch it up. I've moved my CU410 Elite twice that way with no issues.