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Depends on the size, type, and placement. Through mortise from leg to top? Wedge it. Housed from rail to leg? Draw boring and glue is likely strong enough. Loose enough to rattle? Glue more material...

I've used a 5 1/2 with a decent camber as my primary jack for nearly a decade. Wish someone had told me it wasn't useful because it was a fraction of an inch larger or smaller than more common...

If your time is free and your taste austere it's potentially cheap (relative to a $1000 starting point), but upholstery is not something that is easy to learn or affordable. From past experience:...

I process by hand, so a dog and a tail vise. Nothing more annoying for me than having to switch clamping set-ups when switching the direction of planing.

The 5.5 and 5 are both lengths best for medium to rough removal, not smoothing. The added width of the 5.5 is about your strength and work-rate, not much more. A 4 is hard to beat as in all purpose...

Buying a hundred chisels for $2 a pop is the same as buying one for $200 when you don't need, maintain, or use them to build anything. It's stupid. But there's a market for both. Haven't yet figured...

It depends on your current knowledge of design and geometry. If you're totally new to both, the book is an alright introduction to the process. But I personally found it to have a lot of fluff, and...

Use a proper mortise chisel, as others have said; and strive to use the straightest grained stock available. If you are trying to cut a straight and square mortise in a piece that does not have...

If it's 1/32 over 1.5" span, it'll never be a strength issue, so put it wherever it will get seen least, which is on the underside of the bench. If it ends up on the top, just use filler made from...

A bit odd to add more fodder to this necrotic of a thread but:

1. Jointer fences are the best thing I've found for squaring and jointing thin pieces. Flip the jointer and fence and clamp it...

I've designed and built furniture on commission for a few years now, usually completely unplugged, so I get plenty of time in the shop. I learn fairly well by reading, but I probably could've saved...

Lots of good stuff here, but I think this hits the proverbial nail. I imagine I'm younger--31--than some of you, but I think that you're mostly correct in observing that people my age (and younger)...

If you're worried about an invisible glue joint, you need to worry about your joint, not your glue.

No worries. By "practice" I meant how I actually flatten large pieces or joint long edges, in practice, not in theory. I'll take a handful of increasingly long shavings out of the middle, depending...

Not to be a pedant, but do you mean cupping, or bowing? I'm thinking you mean bowing by your reference to the projection of the blade, and with that, a convex bow. The key to eliminating that is...

I believe dewaxing is strictly to ensure compatibility with ensuing topcoats; iirc, all the instructions I've ever read for Sealcoat are about priming/sealing, no mention of its finishing...

Top flatness is most important for working stock that is thin enough to conform to the top when under the pressure of planing. Which is surprisingly often.

If you're constantly planing concavity...

I've found that, all things being equal, the knowing that a piece was crafted arduously and with uncommon skill has a profound effect on the person to whom the object goes, provided they've acquired...

This is the Ship of Theseus.

But more often than not, I find that people who are actually handmaking things rarely advertise them as handmade. Ergo, the more I see "handmade" stamped on...

There is a substantial cleat edge-jointed to the primary stretchers, and 3/4 poplar boards for the seat. They're rabbeted to 1/2 inch on the ends, and also tongue and grooved.

It is super comfy. I attribute this mostly to the quality of foam used in the upholstery. The angle of the back (120 degrees) feels pretty loungey, as it were. I had intended it to be otherwise, but...

Here's a post I made soaking wet on Woodnet a few months ago about a shelf: https://forums.woodnet.net/archive/index.php?thread-7264228.html. And from time to time, I'll take other folks' work and...

Cross-posted from the ol' Woodnet, because there's always much fruitful discussion here. I normally don't post my work because I'm lazy about documentation and photography.



The design drawing....

Spokeshave, usually. But if the curve is mostly in end grain, maybe rasp and file. You can clamp a small square block to the end of a file to make sure the finish is square.

Not necessarily, no. I think the key to eliminating those sorts of surprises is drafting an entire project before you ever touch a piece of wood. It's a lot of work, but really smooths out the...