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Pretty cool. Do you have a link to the stand-offs you used for hanging?

I use figure-8 when attaching ply because I worry less about movement and they are pretty easy to install. If I'm using a hardwood top, z-clip is where it's at. They allow for much more movement...

Well figure-8 fastener is an option of course. If you have a plunge router you can do it with that too. As pointed out a biscuit jointer also works, which I personally don't need since I own a...

I use these and the cool part is you can use your Domino and 4mm bit to create the pockets. And even better news is that if you don't have a Domino, it's a good excuse to get one :D
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I agree with Jim. However when you say "I was thinking that the high clamping pressure might make epoxy a great choice, but may be mistaken there for this application.", remember that epoxy doesn't...

I would use 4. Two top half, two bottom half.

Very nice design Eric.

I personally would use z-clips to attach the top. The design you have there is quite similar to a typical table with apron. It's a tried and true technique that will work...

That's quite the space you have there! What would you say you build most frequently in your shop?

Yea, not a fan of TB III myself. I don't like the glue line consistency/color/residue. It's a fine glue, but after using nearly a gallon of it, I switched to TB II (extend) or TB Quick and Thick as...

That looks great. Looking forward to seeing the drawer fronts pull it together.

Oneida Mini Gorilla would be my first choice. Powerful, cyclone, small footprint and since it is mobile, you could use it elsewhere if/when needed. They have 240 and 120v options. A lot of...

Well said Malcolm. I like that I can adjust the overall size depending on what I’m doing too. Repeated measuring is not the best way to accuracy. Setting up once and repeatedly using it is a much...

It’s expensive for sure, but for layout, particularly for multiple items, and transferring measurements it excels well beyond a tape.

First thought was an insert that could cover any type of sleeve you used. Something like this:
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Personally I would use epoxy and medium hardener to minimize any potential warping using any water-borne glues. With a long open time of epoxy it should be easy to get the drawer perfectly aligned...

I guess it depends on how comfortable you feel making standard miters on furniture. Set your saw at 44.9 degrees and cut the miter. Glue together and use blue tape to hold the seams. I don't think...

The filters on those may say HEPA but they don't specify the rating or link their certificates, so I would be very weary of trusting them to filter dangerous dust particles from sanders, etc. ...

I'm not sure why you'd need a locking miter for that. This is long grain adhesion...it will be insanely strong, even for a short lamp.

Nominal thickness differences are >25% between them. No brainer for me. Personally I'd go 24 gauge at least for the roof.

I'll see if I can get some. If I remember correctly it was 40-series extrusion.

Wow Jim, > 1/8" is quite a bit but it looks great now! LOL, looks like you've got a pile of chips to take care of!

I finally had it with my old workbench that has a slight hump in the middle. On...

Never had a problem with Epoxy. On porous wood I do nothing to the edge, otherwise a little 120gr scuff is enough. I've even glued up thermally modified wood without issue. And excessive pressure on...

Glad you got it working Jerry, hope you enjoy making stuff on your new sled



Yes. You can look up the math, which isn't difficult, but if you have a feeler gauge it's simple. The gap is 2x...

That's right James, the results are what matter. Your method is fine, I was only suggesting that with some good layout tools you can trust and a little experience you can build anything, including a...

Sorry Mike, it wasn't a generalized question, rather it was in context of using the same tools to build a sled as one would a piece of fine furniture. I'm loosely familiar with the use of a shooting...