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That's a beautiful loooooong bench.

An undermount Moxon seems like an odd choice. You wouldn't be able to use it for short boards and because the support for the board would be further from the...

Is the yellow-colored tote pine, plywood, or something else? Looks a bit like a plywood-handled Craftsman saw I have, which is surprisingly ergonomic and actually my favorite rip saw.

My first bench had dog holes in the front edge of the top but I don't think I used them much. Narrow stock is better supported by planing on the bench top, and wide stock needs the dog holes lower...

Let me make an argument in favor of a split top, especially if you are going to use a green slab for the top.

I bought a 3.5" x 23" x 7' (well, 10', but 3' got used for the legs) white oak slab...

From my limited exposure to Charlesworth my impression is that he is rather overrated but I feel you're finding fault just to find fault. Two thousandths of an inch is a perfectly acceptable...

Apparently these are in widespread use in the DRC: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chukudu.

It seems like a practical way to transport people, but for cargo it seems like it would only be practical...

I second Warren's angled leg vise recommendation. I've had an angled leg vise on my bench for about 3 years now using a wooden screw and the AYS chain and it works great for holding work vertically.

The only considerations I can think of, in decreasing order of importance:
1. Make sure the vent doesn't interfere with your lighting setup.
2. Air blowing from the vent could stir up sawdust. This...

For framing tasks I can't imagine needing more precision than a circular saw and a speed square provide. Or a hand saw and a moderately practiced eyeball for that matter.

On difficult grain I tend to start with a straight-edged plane (jointer or LAJ, depending on the size of the work) taking a medium cut across the grain, then follow up with a finely set smoother with...

Nope. DMT Extra Fine (only 1200 grit!) and then strop.

Yesterday while cutting tenons with my 14" sash saw I noticed I was starting cross cuts on the far corner and rip cuts on the near corner. Not sure if anyone else does it that way. The sash saw is...

Someday I'm going to get around to installing the Lie-Nielsen tail vise I bought last year. For the time being I get by with my angled leg vise (far superior to the vertical leg vise IMO) and a...

I've had my set for about 4 years now and I've been pretty happy with them. My experience with the backs was similar to yours - no belly on any of them, though a couple were significantly hollow and...

I've never had much luck with pull saws, maybe because I put too much pressure on them. Western saws work better for me because they're a bit more tolerant of downward pressure.

I don't think...

It sounds to me like you want a Moravian bench.

IIRC, Studley worked at the same shop his entire career (or maybe two shops). And the famous tool chest was made at the very end of his career, probably into his early retirement.

I have the DFM Tool Works dowel plate, though I haven't had occasion to use it yet. It has more holes than the L-N for about the same cost, IIRC.

Edit: yep, $60 for the DFM vs. $65 for the L-N.

I assume by "C&S" you mean Covington and Sons?

I use the angle of the Golden Triangle - 18°. It's relatively extreme but it looks good to me.

This is the kind of saw that's okay to paint.

From that first photo I was expecting it to be lignum vitae. That's a lot of years of grime!

Yours is a little different other than the tote, most notably the curvier casting. From Joel's post it sounds like there were several manufacturers who used Knowles' design and probably added their...

I have a very similar plane, down to the red knob and brown tote. Only difference as far as I can tell from your photo is that the body of mine was originally painted black rather than red. Mine is a...

It looks very similar to the early American metal plane that Joel Moskovitz recently posted about.