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  1. You could let the satin Arm-R-Seal sit in the can...

    You could let the satin Arm-R-Seal sit in the can for a few days and the flatteners will settle to the bottom. The scoop off some of the gloss from the top, and voila, you've got a flat(ter) sheen.
    ...
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    As long as the planing dips aren’t too deep, they...

    As long as the planing dips aren’t too deep, they should be able to be sanded out. Did you stain after the epoxy and oil? Stain won’t penetrate either of those. So both will need to be sanded off in...
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    Hi Dylan. Just curious, why are you leaning...

    Hi Dylan. Just curious, why are you leaning towards an oil/oil-based finish? Given your short timeline, a water-based finish, sprayed lacquer, or even shellac might be ideal.

    And I think any...
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    +1 exactly what Steve said re: flipping method....

    +1 exactly what Steve said re: flipping method. Finish the bottom completely, then flip and do the top and edges. Donít mess with a rotisserie thing. Itís fine just sitting on the saw horses. When...
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    It sounds like youíre either sanding too hard...

    It sounds like youíre either sanding too hard and/or not waiting long enough before sanding. I find after the first coat I usually use 320, then progressively finer with subsequent coats. Usually my...
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    Clear coat isn't really a type of finish. I'd...

    Clear coat isn't really a type of finish. I'd recommend an oil-based varnish like polyurethane, or a non-poly varnish like Waterlox. You could also use a table/bar top epoxy.
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    Water-based topcoats do a lot better with...

    Water-based topcoats do a lot better with spraying, and your dry times will be a lot shorter. Like GF High Performance. If you want to use the oil-based I would thin the ARS about 15% and buy a few...
  8. I've had great results using Penofin Penetrating...

    I've had great results using Penofin Penetrating Oil Finish on several outdoor projects including a cedar bench. You'll want the red or blue can. But I would not join those boards back together....
  9. I think your spar vanish spray is a fine idea,...

    I think your spar vanish spray is a fine idea, and I think you'll be able to get enough spray in those gaps to be sufficient. I wouldn't recommend a very thick film. A few light spray coats will give...
  10. I think Williamsville Wax would do well for this...

    I think Williamsville Wax would do well for this project. I love the stuff. It’s non-toxic and leaves a nice shine. You could use wax filler and/or stain markers to help restore color where there are...
  11. Interesting test! My theory is that the first...

    Interesting test! My theory is that the first coat is being partially dissolved by the solvent in the second coat, and the pigment is lifted off when you wipe off the excess. If you wiped the second...
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    I looove the Deft lacquer rattle cans, mostly...

    I looove the Deft lacquer rattle cans, mostly because of the fan shaped spray/nozzle. Superior to the cone shape of most other brands. I wish all spray paint had the fan spray. Good looking finish...
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    A mixing container with epoxy even an inch or two...

    A mixing container with epoxy even an inch or two deep will get very hot very fast, even with slow setting epoxy. Epoxy produces heat as it cures... the deeper the pour, the harder it is for heat to...
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    Either you didn't mix the correct ratio or didn't...

    Either you didn't mix the correct ratio or didn't mix well enough. Most West System is not a 1:1 ratio. But if this was all done correctly, it may just need more time/heat to harden. The thinner the...
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    Agreed. You could still use a brush on the...

    Agreed. You could still use a brush on the top/horizontal surface, but for any vertical surfaces I would wipe on the finish. I don't know how well lacquer will wipe on. Not sure what kind of project...
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    Most likely the oil went on first. But the...

    Most likely the oil went on first. But the sanding sealer would usually be used before putting another finish on top of it. You may find you like the look of just the oil. There are other oils that...
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    I would strongly consider painting them. A...

    I would strongly consider painting them. A hardware store or Lowe's/HD will help point you in the right direction for a good exterior paint.
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    You could try using a fine scotch brite with...

    You could try using a fine scotch brite with whatever cleaner you use. If itís a durable floor finish it should withstand a little scrubbing and might help to cut whateverís causing the slickness.
  19. I've had much better luck using foam brushes with...

    I've had much better luck using foam brushes with Waterlox than wiping, and that seems to be what they recommend. I'd wipe the edges though (watch for drips). Waterlox recommends four brushed coats...
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    That looks to me like nicely sanded walnut...

    That looks to me like nicely sanded walnut without tear out...those gaps being the natural open grain in walnut.

    But for mild tear out, you could try a thin coat of epoxy then sanding back. Or...
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    I agree with John. You may need to use a DA with...

    I agree with John. You may need to use a DA with some 320 or even 220 to take the bubble layer down if sandpaper doesn’t cut it (pun intended). I would just go ahead and thin the spar 20% with...
  22. Can you just...not paint the knots? Here’s what...

    Can you just...not paint the knots? Here’s what I’d do: could cover the knots with painters/masking tape; scribble over the knot with a pencil until you’re able to see the outline; then use a razor...
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    I would go with two part epoxy. CA glue may be...

    I would go with two part epoxy. CA glue may be appropriate for very small and shallow punky areas but epoxy will ensure stability no matter the size. You'll probably need a few coats/pours depending...
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    Yes that is two part epoxy and will work fine....

    Yes that is two part epoxy and will work fine. Best to warm up the two parts before mixing - it will flow/mix better and have fewer bubbles.
  25. I just went through a whole fiasco painting an...

    I just went through a whole fiasco painting an MDF bookcase. I would strongly recommend brushing on a coat or two of BIN shellac based primer. Then lightly sand smooth and paint. It's the only thing...
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