Onefinity actually looks a little better than Shapeoko, except it's back ordered 3 months, and the company is only about a year old.
The machine has sealed linear bearings and ball screws, instead...
Type: Posts; User: Don Stauffer; Keyword(s):
Onefinity actually looks a little better than Shapeoko, except it's back ordered 3 months, and the company is only about a year old.
The machine has sealed linear bearings and ball screws, instead...
I see! Doing it in small sections allows the jig to be narrow enough to support the router on both sides. But it does seem like the frame would have to be supported on both ends to the same height no...
Phil, that is almost exactly what I had in mind when I first made the post. But I got responses discouraging that plan. Your "slab flattening jig" was not part of my original idea, though. But I did...
3D printers have a similar feature, inaccurately called "mesh bed leveling".
The Shapeoko XXL is one I'm looking at. LowRider2 is a neat concept and extremely cheap but I'd be concerned about the wheels slipping, and the design seems optimized for just sheets of material. But...
Here's more information about me and what I intend to do:
Mostly I build speakers. I do also do some furniture repair and refinishing. This isn't my profession, but at the same time, I believe in...
The reason I'm thinking a CNC router is that I could only replace the burl veneer and leave the 2" frame at the outside. The edges and corners of the frame are where I noticed it's not flat.
The...
I know I can get a great Shapeoko XXL for about $2,500. Are there any good ones substantially cheaper? What limitations do they have?
Thanks!
One possibility would be for me to buy or build a CNC router. I'd have use for one since I make speakers as a hobby. I have lots of 3D printing experience and I've used the milling machine at FabLab...
Tulsa. That would be really great. I can handle the staining and finishing once the veneer is right.
I appreciate all the advice. I'm currently digesting it all while reading up on veneering, and trying to decide exactly what to do. It seems like there's no easy way to deal with this.
Some of their veneers have this note:
"Good news! This veneer has been pressed flat and should stay that way if stored and acclimated appropriately."
Thing is there's a fancy solid edge and I don't want the top standing up above that. I wonder about PSA-backed veneer for the frame.
I got a good impression from VeneerSupplies. They're who suggested this forum.
Their veneer actually indicates whether they consider it to be flat or not. I was going to just go on that.
What's a thickness sander? Am I likely to be able to get one locally (Tulsa)? Are they expensive?
This is fascinating. Since I'm considering veneer, I've been studying wood grains online for a couple days now, and I've reached a couple conclusion which surprise me.
The first thing is that...
Fortunately, the client is me. But yeah, I learned that lesson. I think what I'm settling on is pretty much your second paragraph second sentence there. I'll get some red oak veneer and some burled...
Right now I'm thinking something similar to this: Veneer the frame as well. It seems on closer inspection the frame was hardly more than veneer anyway.
I looked more closely at this. The frame seems to be very thin wood glued on top - thicker than veneer, but not very thick at all. So I think that's how they dealt with not having fragile veneer all...
That's interesting - a CNC router would certainly make it possible to make a precisely sized space for the veneer. I think with some luck and care it might be possible to do that well enough with a...
I considered covering the whole top with veneer. I hesitated to do that since that would expose the edge of the veneer, which would be visible and potentially fragile. I still may, but I also was...
I'm refinishing an end table and it's not going well. I guess there wasn't enough burled walnut veneer left on the top so I sanded through it in places. Well, I learned, so that's something. The...