Shop made thrust bearings for Delta three wheel bandsaw?

I've recently picked up a Delta 28-540 - I think a Canadian variant of the 28-560. It's a 16" three wheel bandsaw.

The thrust bearings are shot, and not available from Delta/Dewalt (Delta part number 1231546). They are available from one aftermarket supplier on the big auction site. But they are US$60 a pair - and the photo suggests his are made from copper... (search for 1231546 and tell me what you think).

The Delta bearings appear to be a ball bearing (or maybe a timkin roller bearing) encased in a thin hard steel shield, and swaged onto a 3/8" steel shaft with a flat milled on it (5/16"). The bearing itself is about 11/16" x 5/16", with 3/8" id.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/NKYsEWZF2ydsFgxf7

I am thinking I should avoid the C$40 per bearing and just epoxy or JB weld a skateboard ball bearing to a steel rod or hardwood dowel. Maybe add a hardened steel shim to the face of the bearing.

Has anyone here done this? Opinions?

I certainly think I should try this for next to nothing before shelling out the hard cash. Doesn't seem much down side to me.

That original bearing would likely just be pressed on the shaft. Press it off, or use a metal cut off wheel and slit it down one side to knock it off. Then do some measuring and buy a new bearing.

Try to read the number before cutting. My delta 14" saw just uses sealed bearings no extra bits. All that is critical is the inner bore which will be metric if the saw was made after ww1. I think mine may be held in with a SHCS. they are on my metal cutting bandsaw. Buy a ten pack from the bay and replace as they get scored.
Bil lD

The problem isn't just identifying the ball bearing, but how to connect it to a suitable shaft (not hard) and how to add a suitable hardened shield (maybe not necessary, but harder to do).

I wonder whether just cutting a flat on the shaft of this will be sufficient:

https://www.bearingscanada.com/3-4-Inch-with-3-8-diameter-integrated-1-Long-p/kit17608.htm

Another option I'm considering is lignum vitae. I will definitely try it for the lateral guide blocks (5/16" square), but maybe the thrust bearing could be lignum vitae too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bill Dufour

Try to read the number before cutting.

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There's no number visible - I am sure the number is obscured by the shield that the bearing is pressed into. The shield is a short cylinder, fully open at one end (the shaft end), and with only the inner race visible on the other face.

VM wiki suggests trying 6200LL bearings:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Rep...aringList.ashx

Those bearings are so small it should be easy to press the shaft out in a vise. Just use a deep socket barely bigger then the shaft to hold it and a short bolt or small socket to push. You could use a hammer and punch but risk mushrooming the shaft. Make sure the punch is flat and not pointed.
If you have to make a new shaft I think the flat is just for the setscrew and a grinder can make one pretty fast. A flat factory one is nice but a hand ground one will work you will just have to back off the screw more every time you move it in and out.
When you install the new bearing there should be a boss so the bearing goes only so far. Lacking that just leave it a little below flush.
I have no idea what the LL designation means on a bearing. Something about the shields or seals I would think. The rpm may be too high for a sealed bearing
Bill D

on edit: Per the SKF site
LL = Machined light alloy cage, window-type, inner or outer ring centred (depending on bearing design)

If you can not find LL I would not worry too much about it. It does not sound real special to me.

Thanks Bill. I was thinking the same about the flat on the shaft.

I think I will take a look at one of these and see what I think:

https://www.bearingscanada.com/3-4-I...p/kit17608.htm

If that is the right size shaft, it should work fine.

Eons ago, I had an old craftsman saw, that used a simple solid metal piece that looked like a valve from a car. That is just what I replaced it with....an intake valve off an old Briggs and Stratten lawn mower motor. Worked fine.

I found the thrust bearing for my Delta 28-113 is a NICE 3002DS bearing, which are still available (new part number 3002DSTNTG18). Am going to remove from the mounting shaft and press on a new one. Hope this is helpful!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Charlie Brady

There's no number visible - I am sure the number is obscured by the shield that the bearing is pressed into. The shield is a short cylinder, fully open at one end (the shaft end), and with only the inner race visible on the other face.

VM wiki suggests trying 6200LL bearings:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Rep...aringList.ashx

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Charlie Brady

The problem isn't just identifying the ball bearing, but how to connect it to a suitable shaft (not hard) and how to add a suitable hardened shield (maybe not necessary, but harder to do).

I wonder whether just cutting a flat on the shaft of this will be sufficient:

https://www.bearingscanada.com/3-4-Inch-with-3-8-diameter-integrated-1-Long-p/kit17608.htm

Another option I'm considering is lignum vitae. I will definitely try it for the lateral guide blocks (5/16" square), but maybe the thrust bearing could be lignum vitae too.

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That's what I did on a Rikon 14" saw but used Corian for the blocks. Part of my reasoning is that narrow blades ( 1/4" or less) don't really have enough flat metal in back of the teeth for a bearing to ride on IMO. Plus the solid surface blocks don't have the pitch build up that bearings can have when sawing wet/soft woods. Solid surface material is soft enough that if the band's teeth run against the guides the guides will give, not the band teeth.

I replaced the blocks, both side and thrust, on my Davis-Wells 20" with ceramic at least ten years ago and have barely had to think about guide blocks since. It was a lot of fussy work making aluminum holders for the lateral blocks, but the thrust bearing was (as I remember) off the shelf. One of the best tool investments I've ever made.

Amazing durability. Takes some getting used to the sparking of the thrust bearing, but that kind of lets you "know they're working". Resaw performance has been great ever since, --as it was previously when I my lignum blocks were newly replaced. Needed to replace them at least every blade.

https://www.spaceageceramics.com/