Kreg setup for 5/8" stock

I confess before the forum that I am about to make maple drawer boxes using Kreg screws at the corners. <gasp>

I'll put the screw holes on the outsides of the front and back parts, and I'll have a false front to cover the front holes. My Kreg jig is probably 20 years old: it's the K2000.

I plan to go with 5/8" part thickness. I need to choose the right screw and jig setup for 5/8".

The Kreg screw selector tool tells me to use 1" fine-thread screws, SPS-F1. OK so far.

Now, for the jig setup. The manual says it's nominally set up for 3/4" material, but the kit includes a riser block for 1/2" stock ("Position 2"). The instructions say Position 2 can be used for material ranging between 1/2" and 5/8". ☞ But I'm wondering if I ought to make a half-height riser block, to get 1/8" deeper into the mating part?

Or should I just use 1/2" drawer sides?

I'd just make a few test joints using the 1/2" settings and see how it goes. If it doesn't seem like you're getting enough screw engagement in the sides, you may be able to use a 1 1/4 screw since the screw will exit the front/back material slightly above center if you use the 1/2 setting with 5/8 material. But that may require moving the jig a little further from the edge of the stock, which your jig may not allow.

Either way, experimenting with some scrap would be the best way to find out.

If you want to use the .625" thick stock, make a new riser so that you get the correct orientation and projection for the pocket holes. And yes, the 1" screws should work fine as they do for .5" stock. As Paul mentions...test, test, test so you can dial things in before doing the actual drawers. I think that the .625" thick stock will look very nice for the drawers (there is no law that says you have to use half inch or three-quarter inch stock for everything) and will give just a hair more "beef" over the thinner stock.

Nothing wrong with Kreig pocket hole joinery.

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Originally Posted by Thomas McCurnin

Nothing wrong with Kreig pocket hole joinery.

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Stumpy says so.

https://youtu.be/-jW8YynwsDc?si=b1t7ULPnMZhlbedz

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Originally Posted by Paul F Franklin

I'd just make a few test joints using the 1/2" settings and see how it goes. If it doesn't seem like you're getting enough screw engagement in the sides, you may be able to use a 1 1/4 screw since the screw will exit the front/back material slightly above center if you use the 1/2 setting with 5/8 material. But that may require moving the jig a little further from the edge of the stock, which your jig may not allow.

Either way, experimenting with some scrap would be the best way to find out.

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Yep, this will be about test test test.

But I’m not sure I followed your analysis.

I think you're overthinking this.

Have you tested the 5/8 sides in your jig set up to the 1/2" - 5/8" setting ? Why not ? You'd certainly do a test on the 3/4" setting or 1-1/2" one ..........so just get on with it.

Let's say it doesn't work. Or not to your satisfaction. Just use 1/2" drawer sides.

-or- use dowels instead.

-or- biscuits

-or- dominos

-or- even just miter the corners and glue em up - they'll still be plenty strong enough.

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Originally Posted by Bob Jones 5443

Stumpy says so.

https://youtu.be/-jW8YynwsDc?si=b1t7ULPnMZhlbedz

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Actually he doesn’t. Use the instructions as a guide and then just test.

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Originally Posted by Michael Burnside

Actually he doesn’t. Use the instructions as a guide and then just test.

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i don’t know. He was unusually chippy about his defense of pocket holes in that video.

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Originally Posted by Dave Sabo

I think you're overthinking this.

Have you tested the 5/8 sides in your jig set up to the 1/2" - 5/8" setting ? Why not ? You'd certainly do a test on the 3/4" setting or 1-1/2" one ..........so just get on with it.

Let's say it doesn't work. Or not to your satisfaction. Just use 1/2" drawer sides.

-or- use dowels instead.

-or- biscuits

-or- dominos

-or- even just miter the corners and glue em up - they'll still be plenty strong enough.

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Dave, you’re right. I haven’t yet milled the wood, so I don’t have a lot of test parts. I’ll make some half-inch boards and a new riser block and see how it goes. If it’s fussy, I’ll go by the book and use 5/8”.

I came here looking for the answer because I am also trying to pocket hole 5/8" stock. Since I didn't see a definitive answer, I did some testing and thought I'd share what I found.

I found that when I used the 1/2" jig settings w/1" screws, my screw entered the non-drilled stock too near the end and split the wood. (Stock is hard maple)
When I used the 3/4" jig settings w/1" screws, everything worked perfectly.

Not an answer for every situation, but it's working for me.

I would just adjust the stop collar on the drill to go a bit deeper. As previously mentioned, do a test run, if it's too deep you will know it right away.