Teak veneer application

My boat has a teak plywood bulkhead separating the cabin from the helm area. All of the surfaces are flat but have angle features. After refinishing the helm surface of the bulkhead many times I have sanded through the teak ply in many places. Over the 25 plus years we have owned the boat I have used teak oil and most lately, Sikkens Cetol. I am faced with painting, replacing with new plywood, or applying a new veneer layer. We live in the Seattle area and the boat is in the water, and used, all year. Temperatures vary from a week or so long time in the low 20's in the winter to a week or two in the 90's in the summer. High humidity is in the 60's and low in the 30's. The bulkhead is under a canvas "Navy Top" that encloses the helm area, so it stays pretty dry. My finishing plan is to use "Awlwood" on all of my exterior teak as this product is very resistant and has a great depth.

My concern is how to glue the veneer on to the current bulkhead. I'll need to wait until at least March for the temperature to be warm enough. I plan to prep the substrate by removing the corner trim and complete the removal of the teak ply but retain a flat surface. Then I will use acetone to clean the surfaces, repeating that just before applying whatever glue. Bagging is not an option because of shape and penetrations an clamping isn't an option either. Currently, the best solution I'm seeing is using tight bond two. Using a process that allows the glue to get mostly dry on both surfaces then using a household iron to apply the veneer.

Do do any of you have any other suggestions or ideas? I can get some pictures if they would help. Thanks advance.

I wouldn't trust anything but epoxy.
How about making a thin "plywood" from 3 layers of veneer with epoxy adhesive in a press. This would give you a veneer that's rigid enough to be bonded to your door with epoxy by using clamps and cauls.
Then finish with 2-3 coats of epoxy and several coats of good varnish.

I'd go even further. I'd use teak-veneered plywood, at least 1/4" thick. I'd fasten it mostly with screws. You could put glue behind it too, but mostly it stays in place because of the screws. The screws can be somewhat decorative -- maybe shiny brass or shiny stainless steel -- laid out in some pattern.

Jamie's solution was the first idea that came to mind. But it does add weight, the nemesis of any marine craft.

A photo would of course help, but what about air pressure as opposed to vacuum (which you've indicated isn't feasible)? Cutout a "platen" that would cover the veneer. Build another surface at some uniform distance away, and use tubes or other to inflate and push the platen up against the glued veneer? Use release fabric and a layer of plastic (to isolate that which you are gluing), and to Gerry's point ... epoxy.

Thanks for the replies. Pictures are in work.

Attachment 327660 Attachment 327663 As you can there's quite a bit going on with this bulkhead. The door is solid teak boards, so the distance between the door sides can't change much at all. The way each side is constructed is the faces are edged and screwed to the edges of the doorway. There is a removable cap at the angle break that I would remove and reinstall. I'd do the same with the window trim. Of course the door stays and the soft trim is removable.

Peter, I'd be inclined to just finish again with Cetol or whatever you're using. But ... I suspect you are thinking you could restore to "like new." Could the entire bulkhead be removed and replicated? Or is that more than you wanted to sign up for?

It's one of those tipping point things. Yes, I can remove the whole thing and rebuild it but it mean a $500 sheet of 3/4 plywood and there's not a real good place to set up a saw on the docks for those "final trims".
I have sanded through the exposed ply in quite a few places over the years and it's time to bring it back. A few years ago I replaced all of the exterior teak except the swim step and all those pieces are coming home next week to get finished with "Awlwood" while I tend to she who must be obeyed while she recovers from hip replacement surgery. It's a 1980 that we bought in 1987 and we have used the heck out of it.

Hi Peter,

You have a few options. You can replace the entire bulkhead for a lot less than $500 a sheet or you can vacuum bag it if you want or you can also veneer in place with hide glue.

I also live in Seattle, if you need some assitance get in touch with me.