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I'm trying to do beer mugs on my Epilog Mini 25 and am having a problem with the drive wheel. I'm assuming that the wheel is turning properly but that the mug is slipping because the print starts OK but then starts to get squeezed and misshapen. The mug is fairly heavy as is the handle. Could it be that the position of the handle as it turns throw it off? Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob
I had the same problem in my machine and I solved it. I took a large handfull of glass marbles, put them in a sandwich bag and put them in the mug. It adds the weight needed to keep the mug from slipping on the rollers as the mug turns and the handle weight is to the side.
You could also try putting in a heavier socket (maybe a deep well) from your tool box. That rolls around nice in there.
Lisa
Bob, the Epilog's rotary has very shiny rubber bands on them, give them a gentle rub with fine emery paper to roughen them up. Clean the glass well before you rest it on there, added weight will help, I have also used a small piece of masking tape around the areas where the glass and the rubber meet, no slippage.
My rotary attachment has a clamp at the head that holds items tight to the
rotating head. I have done my share of mugs and glasses and I've not had
any slippage while clamped. Is their no clamp on your rotary attachment?
Also I don't use anything inside as a counter weight.
ken
Bob,
One other note - you might not be dealing with slippage. I fought and fought with some mugs once to figure out why it was slipping - turns out the tops of the mugs aren't as square as we'd like. So when I rested the top up against the little stop, as it went around, it was binding as the mug got closer/further away from the stop.
You might want to try to push the mug all the way in to the left as it should be, then back it off a 32nd or more away from that stop.
Ok - one more that might cause problems. Speed - if you're running it faster at higher power, my Epilog rotatry likes to 'jump' to the next spot in between letters. On some items, I cut my speed and power in half if not more to slow down the jerks...
Good luck,
If your mug is tapered it can cause trouble also
Ed
I have issues with the mugs that have panels on the bottom. The smaller standard size ones do ok on both sides. but the larger one if I engrave on the reverse side (you have to turn the mug around then the clamp won't work) about the time it gets to the halfway point the handles weight pulls it down. Right now I'll only engrave the one side. You can't do a full circle on the handled mugs as the handle will hit the I beam when rotating.
For the paneled mugs I put a hose clamp around the bottom so it effectively makes it round. Works pretty good.
My clients love these or it would be easier to switch to an unpanelled version.
I find large pilsner glasses work the best (Libby Product) I try to recommend those when I can.
Marty
I get pilsner glasses from walmart. I believe they are libby glasses. They laser great and they are nice and clear and well made. I get beer mugs from Kmart (haven't seen any beer mugs at walmart that are plain). They are clear to almost the bottom and they laser great. I can't think of the brand (they might be libby). I have looked on the internet to order different glasses but the shipping gets me every time! Glass weighs a lot so it's a lot to ship :( One thing to be careful of the pilsner....when you put the glass in, you have to level it out. That changes where the text or clip art will laser on your glass. I saw a formula on here one day that helped you figure out how much it will change on the glass......that's too complicated for me :) I keep a practice glass and stick that in the machine and then move the clipart to wherever I want it. Glasses without a handle aren't a big deal because you can pretty much stick those in the laser and only have to measure how far down you want your clip art. Once you get a glass with a handle that's trickier. Sometimes I use the clip that holds the glass down but many times when you have a handle you can't use the clip. If there is a lip on the glass (I use a glass where the lip has a curve) you can't use the clip either. Sometimes I put in a deep well socket or two (sometimes I wrap a paper towel around it). I have tried the marbles and they seem to roll out and give me trouble. Maybe if I put them in a small bag or something that would work.
I agree with what has been said and highlight what Steve said about the shape of the glass. I have done stemmed glasses and the top of the glass hasn't actually been 90 degree upright, this caused a wobble further up and a screw thread effect pushing the glass upwards and down as it rotated. Showed up on the finished work slightly diagonal. Had to bin it. That was when I came up with the masking tape around the very top and very bottom of the glasses, it seemed to stop it.
Thanks Frank, one more thing I haven't thought of yet! glasses being out of sruare. next time I hit Walmart or Garden ridge I'm bringing a square.
Also on buying glasses wholesale and don't want the shipping expense.
Try hotel and resteraunt suppliers in your area. Most spots ought to have at least one local wholesaler.
I use Ford Hotel Supplies out of St, Louis they have a Great selection. On smaller runs though it is off to Walmart or Garden Ridge!
Marty
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Beckham
I've been up and down for the last week due to the ice storm and I'm not sure if this was already discussed. But Epilog fixed the 'jump' that occurs in the rotary device. If you're still experiencing problems, with the slippage, try the firmware update. I just downloaded it and put it in the laser, but haven't had a chance to try it yet.
Today is my first day back to work for a week. Got power back at the store Saturday late evening and power back at the house last night after the superbowl - :eek: - that's alright mother nature, I've got a Sears Craftsman Generator that runs 2/3rds of the house and I was able to watch the game anyway.
I'm going to post some pics of the ice storm in Offtopic Forum later...
Steve