File handles - how to attach???

Ok, not exactly purist woodworking question but - I have a drawer full of files, metal, wood, needle, round, triangle, long, short, etc. I don't think I have ever had a handle on one over the years. I normally wrap a small rag around the tang for use. I have one handle that the end screws and two metal brackets inside clamp down - only problem is that the file handle always comes loose. I know I can turn some on the lathe, drill a hole in the end and embed the tang with something like epoxy. Of course when the files are shot, so is the handle. Is there a reasonably priced answer to fitting my files with handles? What do you all do for handles? And how do you keep them attached? My 70+ year old hands would like something a little easier to use. Thanks. Randy

Wood handles simply push onto the tang. No epoxy needed. Files only cut on a forward stroke, you should lift it to pull back, there won't be any pulling action to loosen the handle. They don't lend themselves to being swapped between files, but replacing a worn file on the same handle a couple times is no problem

Old timers drill a hole a little smaller then needed. heat the tang up a little, but not enough to draw the temper, and shove the handle on quickly so it burns an exact fitting socket.
Bill D

After first using handles on files years I hate to use one without, especially the smaller files.

I have some that twist on and stay on well. Others I insert the hand then tap the end of the handle on the workbench to drive the tang tight. I also use a set I bought somewhere with a bunch smaller tapered plastic pieces that stay on the file and a removable handle that fits the plastic pieces. I've also turned wooden handles and drilled a hole sized so the corners of the tang compresses/cuts into the wood.

But the last set of decent files I bought came with a handle on each file - no fuss! I keep those in a wall rack at my mill and metal lathe.

JKJ

Google “screw on file handle” and you’ll get a lot of low priced options. I believe they are made in sizes based on the length of the file. I think Nicholson also makes push on handles that are reasonably priced.

I’ve bought a lot of wooden thread on handles from lee valley. There very reasonable and are removable for reuse.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...=1,42524,50738

I make my own handles because I don't like the price of store-bought around here. YMMV.

Before I had a lathe, I made my handles from a dowell rod cut to length. I varied the dowell diameter depending on the size of file. For the hole, I usually measure the width of the tang about half way along its length, then drill the hole the same size. Then, put the handle on a little, turn it all vertical and rap the handle on my bench to drive the tang into the hole. (Occasionally, this splits the handle. Go slowly.)

I recently saw a description that drilled the hole in 3 stages, to get a sort of step-tapered hole. I havent tried it yet and it might be more bother than you want. But I'll describe it in case it gives you or someone else an idea.
1. Drill a hole a little more narrow than the end of the tang. Drill it a little deeper than the full depth of the tang (so there's clearance).
2. Re-Drill the hole using a bit that is as wide as the tang at its half-way point. Drill it to a depth that is an inch or so less than the full length of the tang.
3. Re-drill again with a bit that is slightly more narrow than the widest part of the tang. Drill to a depth of only an inch or so.
The result of steps 1-3 is a step-tapered hole. Workholding will be key to getting it right.

For many people, this might be more bother than they want and "store bought" is a better solution.

Fred

a file handle really should have a metal ferule made of pipe or copper tube to prevent splitting. I wonder if heat shrink tubing would be good enough.
Bill D

For smaller files the cork from a Patron bottle* works perfect. Just drill a small pilot hole and push the file into the cork.

*You couldnt pay me to drink the stuff but I have a good friend that is a bartender and I get all the corks I can use and then some.

https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https:...6-a5388c1d4894

If you have one that is epoxied on just heat it up with a heat gun and drive it off. If you do not have a lathe but a sander and a drill you now have a lathe good enough to make a handle. If you buy them just tap them on a table much like you would do with a socket chisel to keep them seated. I drill the handle with two bits the first one is up from the point about an 1/8 of and inch. measure that and drill a little deeper than needed. then measure up 60% or so and drill to that depth. then heat your tang and drive it in the handle. Use a copper tube or brass or steel to make the ferrel out of and put it on first. if its just a little loose it will not be after you drive the file in it. I do have some that I knocked the handle off of an old screw driver (plastic one) and drove the file in and they work good too.

Oregon chainsaw file handles are perfect for small files, and my hands. They're often available pretty cheap on ebay in multiples. They come with a small hole for chainsaw files, but can easily be drilled out for things like small mill files.

Ok, thanks, lots of good ideas. Randy

I never understood using files without handles. The cheapest push on wooden handles work perfectly. McMaster Carr sells them for under two bucks. Just buy a dozen or two.

Oh yeah the cork reminded me, not sure why I didn't mention it before but golf balls make great file handles too! I've got them on my bigger lathe files