JD Wallace Model 10 Jointer Advice and Experience

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02-13-2018, 4:46 AM
Joey Monheit

4 Attachment(s)

JD Wallace Model 10 Jointer Advice and Experience

I’m in the market for a jointer and at first I thought a nice used Jet 6” would satisfy but I just restored a Rockwell 28-200 bandsaw and really enjoyed the process. This led me to look for vintage jointer machinery that run but could be cleaned up to run very well and built on a much more solid platform.
I found a Wallace 8” Model 10 near me for $350 that I jumped on and went to check out. It runs great, has the long 76” bed, spiral type head, is converted to 1PH 220v and very clean for its age. The only thing is a small chip at the edge of the i feed table at the blade (see pics).
I’m hoping the man who restored the wallace 8” sees this post and can chime in on his thoughts on the machine and if its a good one to bring back to life.
02-13-2018, 7:34 AM
Matt Day

Nice find, I say go for it. A jointer is a simple machine and that one looks like you could clean the beds and fence and put it to work. Check cutterhead and motor bearings and belts too.

Btw, that’s not a spiral cutterhead. Appears to be a standard straight knife head.

OWWM and vintage machinery would be good places to find more information.
02-13-2018, 7:59 AM
Bill Orbine

I checked Vintage Machinery. Interesting: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=6597

Skew set knives......
02-13-2018, 8:12 AM
Joey Monheit

Thanks for the clarification on the blades. I knew they weren't spiral but they looked skewed which Bill confirmed for me. Thanks!
02-13-2018, 9:17 AM
Myk Rian

Joey
I got your PM. I no longer have the Wallace, but I did create a restoration thread on OWWM. www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=98833
I'll try to answer your Qs. One tip. Take care with the bearings. You may not be able to replace them, depending on what configuration they are.

Quote:

are blades hard to find and where did you find them? The blades on the machine now are sharp, I just want to make sure I can get replacements.

They are standard blades. Just measure them and go shopping. I bought Freud blades.
It isn't a helical head, but instead it is a SKEWED design. Works well and helps hold the material to the fence.

Quote:

Is it a challenge to change blades and do you have any advice for doing so?

I used a socket and I believe, a 1/2x24 tpi bolt to pull the locks out to loosen the blades. It's explained in my owwm thread near the last page.

Quote:

Did you paint with spray paint or brush? oil/latex?

Spray paint from the auto supply store.

Quote:

There is a chip in the i feed bed near the blades but I don’t think it will affect performance. What do you think?

The chip won't hurt anything, but for aesthetics, JB weld can clean it up.

Quote:

Any other advice you have for me before I start would be greatly appreciated.

Other than taking your time, it's a jointer. Very simple machines.

I'll subscribe to this thread to help when I can. I have several PDF files that may help.
PM me your email address.

Cheers
02-13-2018, 10:06 AM
Joey Monheit

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myk Rian

Joey
I got your PM. I no longer have the Wallace, but I did create a restoration thread on OWWM. www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=98833
I'll try to answer your Qs. One tip. Take care with the bearings. You may not be able to replace them, depending on what configuration they are.

They are standard blades. Just measure them and go shopping. I bought Freud blades.
It isn't a helical head, but instead it is a SKEWED design. Works well and helps hold the material to the fence.

I used a socket and I believe, a 1/2x24 tpi bolt to pull the locks out to loosen the blades. It's explained in my owwm thread near the last page.

Spray paint from the auto supply store.

The chip won't hurt anything, but for aesthetics, JB weld can clean it up.

Other than taking your time, it's a jointer. Very simple machines.

I'll subscribe to this thread to help when I can. I have several PDF files that may help.
PM me your email address.

Cheers

Myk - I read through the first few pages of your thread on OWWM and it will be a good resource for me. Since my machine runs and the motor is direct drive I won’t have as much modification to do. My plan is to clean everything up, remove the fence and cutter head, and bearings, and clean and lube....paint and check electrical and put back together making improvements where necessary. Blades felt sharp but I guess it makes sense to remove them and put them back in so I know how the machine works.
02-13-2018, 9:18 PM
Joey Monheit

1 Attachment(s)

I’ve got the jointer home and ready to take apart and clean up. I took the fence and side extensions off for moving the heavy thing. Anything to watch for when taking apart?
Any recommendations for DC would be greatly appreciated. The base isn’t a Wallace and the setup the PO had didn’t seem to work too well.

Attachment 379018
02-15-2018, 10:39 AM
Joey Monheit

I've got everything taken apart and the motor off. I used the scaler from HF you mentioned and it worked well , I was actually pretty surprised how well it took off the paint, loud tool thou. I removed the tables and the two large springs holding the table tops to the base are rusted and I would like to replace them if possible. Did you replace them and what type of specs did you use for finding replacements?
As for the dust collection; I'm going to take your design and use a piece of wood over the top with a port cut into the bottom. Is that pretty much all you did? What port did you get to use? I can run 4" or 6".
Thanks in advance!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myk Rian

Joey
I got your PM. I no longer have the Wallace, but I did create a restoration thread on OWWM. www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=98833
I'll try to answer your Qs. One tip. Take care with the bearings. You may not be able to replace them, depending on what configuration they are.

They are standard blades. Just measure them and go shopping. I bought Freud blades.
It isn't a helical head, but instead it is a SKEWED design. Works well and helps hold the material to the fence.

I used a socket and I believe, a 1/2x24 tpi bolt to pull the locks out to loosen the blades. It's explained in my owwm thread near the last page.

Spray paint from the auto supply store.

The chip won't hurt anything, but for aesthetics, JB weld can clean it up.

Other than taking your time, it's a jointer. Very simple machines.

I'll subscribe to this thread to help when I can. I have several PDF files that may help.
PM me your email address.

Cheers
02-15-2018, 7:14 PM
Myk Rian

First, don't post here and then PM me later. I'll get around to this thread when I do.
I used a 4" dust port, and the OEM springs.
02-15-2018, 7:42 PM
Matt Day

Seems to me this project would do better on OWWM. More people with direct knowledge of the machine and old machinery in general.
02-15-2018, 8:09 PM
Myk Rian

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Day

Seems to me this project would do better on OWWM. More people with direct knowledge of the machine and old machinery in general.

I agree with that.
03-01-2018, 6:14 AM
Joey Monheit

1 Attachment(s)

I finished the machine and it runs very strong and cuts great with some new blades. The knives were easier to set than I had planned for. Thanks for the help, everyone.

Attachment 380153 Attachment 380153
03-01-2018, 9:28 AM
Andrew Hughes

Joey that's a nice looking Jointer. It has a I'm ready and very capable look to it.
I wouldn't mind having one in my shop.