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I am a retired pharmacist and live in the United kingdom
Chestnut products market a Finishing oil ($27 per litre) see msd below
https://chestnutproducts.co.uk/wp-co...ishing-Oil.pdft
another Uk .company Barrettine market an indoor lamp oil ($5 per litre)
see msd. below
https://www.barrettinepro.co.uk/uplo...Lamp%20Oil.pdf
My question from a practical point of view could the indoor lamp oil be used as a substitute for the Chestnut finishing oil
I would probably say no. The MSDS for the lamp oil indicates it is all normal alkanes (i.e. straight carbon chains of single bonds). Drying oils have some ability to chemically crosslink, and so the lamp oil probably would not dry (cure).
You could always take a piece of wood and try it, but my guess on the limited info in the msds is that it would not work. That being said, its not completely clear what the Chestnut finishing oil is really made of.
John
Certainly not chestnuts, the Chestnut seems to be a brand name. The MSDS indicates a few drying or volatile agents, naphtha, xylene and a couple of others.Quote:
That being said, its not completely clear what the Chestnut finishing oil is really made of.
The lamp oil looks to be noting but a flammable oil. It is not likely to dry anytime within our lifetimes.
Boiled linseed oil, tung oil, or shellac may be better choices.
jtk
I don't believe I would use the lamp oil. Any I've seen was primarily kerosene. The MSDS on both products is not very clear what they are though. A finishing oil in normally a hardening oil such as linseed oil or tung oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Deakin
A huge thankyou to everyone for your posts/advice and educating me in the science of finishing oils
One test is to put a drop of a candidate finish on a piece of glass and see if it sets up and forms a hard compound.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Deakin
John Thankyou for the advice
I have purchased a can of Chestnut Finishing oil and plan to use it on future projects
You might try Pentrol, which is about 70% naphtha, 1% ethylbenzene, and 30% not-mentioned-in-the-MSDS but pretty sure from the smell, linseed oil.
I clear-coated a boat with it, I can attest, it will dry hard :)
before-
Attachment 419812
after- (I didn't paint the tower to show the difference)
Attachment 419813 Attachment 419814
--it was just an experiment that worked wonderfully...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev Williams
Well, that just means that 70% of your money is going to evaporate (the naptha and ethyl benzene solvents). BLO is pretty cheap in comparison. You get more than 30% finish that way. (No solvents at all in good quality BLO!)
I'm not a chemist - but - I do have an answer for you.
You are looking for answers using the wrong documentation.
A (Material) Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) is not a formula sheet or even a complete listing of all the contents.
It only lists the materials that are known to be harmful in the event of a spill while being transported.
So - - the answer to your question is - no. The two are not interchangeable.
Rich
Thank you for educating me
kind regards
Brian
I did the whole boat with 3 cups of an $8 quart of the stuff, don't really think money was the issue. ;) And for all I know, maybe the solvents are responsible for how well it turned out? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by James Waldron
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev Williams
Well, you're the expert, I suppose. Empericism rules! Chemistry is sooo Twentieth Century! :rolleyes: