Steve Schlumpf - several years ago you offered a great instructional article on how you apply dyes to turned pieces. Can you offer a link to that article?
Thankyou
Tony Tomlinson
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Steve Schlumpf - several years ago you offered a great instructional article on how you apply dyes to turned pieces. Can you offer a link to that article?
Thankyou
Tony Tomlinson
Hi Tony, I found this, hope this helps
https://sawmillcreek.org/archive/ind...t-148933.html?
Jay Mullins
Tony, you have a good memory! I think I had a few threads that included some instructions but hope this is the thread you are thinking of: Hollow Form Color Experiment and the result Finished Product of HF Color.
Thanks for posting this. I have used india ink with good results but it raises the grain and has to be sanded again. I tried transtint in friction polish and the result was barely fair, just a little blotchy. I have altered the color of maple the way colonial gunsmiths did, chemically with acqua fortis, but it is an acid with those dangers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Schlumpf
That's what I was remembering! Thanks ever so much Steve, much appreciated.
Tony
It did help Jay, thank you very muchQuote:
Originally Posted by Jay Mullins
Tony
Attachment 389838
This is an ash bowl dyed with Boehlen's alcohol based black dye and finished with a beeswax/mineral oil mix. There was no problem dying this bowl. It was sanded to 220 grit. Dying a bowl should be no different than dying other pieces, like drawer fronts. The only problem I've had dying has been with red oak (have not tried white oak). It is more difficult to get the grain to accept the dye with red oak. The best suggestion I can give is to test the dye out on a scrap of the same wood sanded to the same final grit.