I cut non ferrous metal rarely, but have a project that may need multiple cuts

Most often I've used a Hack saw to cut thin aluminum and other similar thin non ferrous metals. However, I've run into a project that might call for cutting a number of fairly thin pieces of aluminum. I've got both rotator cuffs torn, repaired and re-torn, so I try to avoid any sawing action. Thought this forum would have people who cut non ferrous metals a lot and might direct me to a reasonable, reasonably inexpensive solution. I searched doing it on my BS, but the advice was to avoid that if at all possible. Youtube shows guys cutting those types of metals with i.e. Diablo Table saw blades. However, when reading reviews of those blades, they have a tendency to lose tips while cutting and that could be dangerous. The same could be said for composite metal cut off discs, they have a tendency to shatter. Forrest (makes my Woodworker II blade, almost an industry standard) also makes blades for non ferrous cutting, but is almost 4x as expensive as those Freud made Diablo blades. I just don't do enough metal cutting to justify that expense, unless you all tell me that it's a safety issue. I guess then, I'd have to buy one just to have it around for the occasional metal cutting task. Could anyone simplify a solution for me? Thanks for any input!

Don't use a cutoff wheel for aluminum. Any good carbide tipped blade 50-80 tooth will rip through thin aluminum like a hot knife through butter. And you don't really need carbide. Any High Speed Steel blade will slice aluminum. You may want to attach thin aluminum to a piece of 1/4" plywood with double sided tape to stabilize it. Don't force it just let the blade cut it. Safety glasses are a must.

You can do the same with soft (or hard) brass. Be sure you vacuum when you're done or the metal chips will embed in your shoes.

BTW I used this on 1/4" plate. Two passes 1/8" each and 3/16" brass.

I've cut aluminum quite a bit on my SCMS with a 12" carbide blade (thin stock, bars, extrusions) and thin aluminum and brass on my bandsaw with a steel blade intended for wood. Wear safety glasses, of course, or better, a full face mask. I've never chipped or lost a carbide tooth except when accidentally running into a hardened steel nail or screw.

Abrasive metal cut-off wheels are great for steel but will load up with aluminum. (I've had the tiny disks for a Dremel shatter when binding in the slot but never one with fiber reinforcing made for 4-1/2" angle grinders.)

If you have a lot of extra money to spend and a BUNCH of any kind of metal to cut, even stainless steel and 1/2" thick steel - get a plasma torch!

JKJ

There's no harm in using a bandsaw with a wood cutting blade to cut aluminum, I've done it numerous times. Clean the aluminum chips off the tires with a stiff brush when you're finished and wear eye protection.

Thanks guys for the straight talk and input. I was looking at the Hitachi 72 tooth carbide tipped blade before going on the forum. It's not too expensive and meets the requirements stated above. I'm very happy with my 10" Hitachi SCMS and looks like it's going to get another blade to complement the Forrest Chopmaster that's on it now. Again thanks for the input, esp. the helpful hints like vacuum the bits or they get on your shoes. We have wood floors throughout the house and no doubt that could cause LOML to come after me with a rolling pin.

You shouldn't have any trouble cutting non ferrous metal with a circular saw or table saw, but wear full body protection. The chips will be very hot. You need to wear safety glasses, hearing protection, a face shield, long sleeved shirt, a leather or at the very minimum a woodworkers vest type apron to protect your chest and body, and leather gloves.

Kick back when cutting metal on a table saw is a bit safer than when ripping wood, because the saw kerf doesn't close up around the blade like wood can. You should always use a fence or straight edge to guide the saw, because binding the blade in a metal cut can damage the blade teeth and even break them off. My son and I cut steel plate up to 1" thick on a specially modified Delta Contractors Saw. It uses a specially designed carbide blade that's designed for cutting steel. For aluminum and non ferrous materials, a standard fine tooth wood cutting blade will work fine, but don't use your best wood cutting blade for this as it can be hard on the blade life and sharpness. Just spray PAM or similar coating on the blade to keep metal chips from sticking to it, especially when cutting aluminum.

Charley

I frequently cut aluminum using table saw and Skilsaw with fine pitch carbide blade. Using a wax lube will prevent chip welding.

You haven't said what alloy the aluminium is. Some is almost as hard and strong as mild steel. 7000 series for example. We had a manager showing his guys how to cut the hold down tabs on a wing part on a table saw. The tabs were only about .040" or less where the blade was cutting and the part probably got off angle a little and 11 teeth came off the wood combination blade, three of which hit him in the shoulder. He had to go to the hospital to have them dug out. After that they used a jigsaw.

Use a negative rake blade made for metal and lubricate the blade with a blade lube stick of some kind.

An example.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/F-16...x-Stick/T27210

Don, like John I mostly use my miter saw for cutting aluminum. I have never used any lubricant and I think there could be more of a chance of a problem with chips sticking to the blade when using one. I have used my table saw to cut long pieces of thin (.060") brass and thin material should be sandwiched between wood, like thin plywood. If the aluminum you're cutting is very thin the sandwich method would be better than using double stick tape since there is a chance of kinking the material when removing it.

The real secret to successful metal cutting with woodworking blades is to use a high count carbide tipped blade and slow feed rate.

If you have a bunch to cut, buy a dedicated aluminum cutting blade. I've used both steel and carbide blades. Buy a "tube" of cutting wax.

The best blades for cutting aluminum will have a “TCG” triple chip grind tooth profile.
I use a 7-1/4" Morse aluminum cutting blade in my Skilsaw 77 worm drive saw for cutting aluminum.
Attachment 389171

Doug

I often use a Jig Saw with a metal cutting blade to cut brass, aluminum and steel sheet. Its a pretty inexpensive and safe option.