can anyone tell me where I can buy a Matsumura 30mm white steel bench. With guaranteed delivery within 10 days. Need it for a class I'm taking. Or a similar quality Japanese chisel.
Thanks Mike
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can anyone tell me where I can buy a Matsumura 30mm white steel bench. With guaranteed delivery within 10 days. Need it for a class I'm taking. Or a similar quality Japanese chisel.
Thanks Mike
I wouldn't know but I would try to get a chisel by another maker. Matsumura is completely unknown in Japan which doesn't speak well of the quality.
I had a few Matsumura dovetail chisels about 18 years ago. They kept chipping. They were replaced by Koyamaichi. I've been very satisfied by these. Never chipped, sharpen easily and hold a good edge.
Get them from Lee Valley.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Mike-
You can get a much better quality entry-level bench chisel in the Masashige brand from Hida Tool with only a 2 or 3 day turnaround in shipping (as long as it’s in stock). I have a few of this brand and while they are not nearly the best chisels in my arsenal, the steel is of decent quality and they are not very expensive, so good to learn on.
I have a Masashige usu-nomi and I use it a lot. It's finished very nicely, it sharpens easily and the edge retention is very good. I can recommend the brand.
Ok I now have my new masashige chisel, can anyone recommend a good sharpening video? I do have norton water stones. 1000, 4000, &8000. and veritas mk2 or 3 jig can’t remember. Also work sharp 3000. If any of that stuff will work. Did I mention I’m terrible at sharpening.
Thanks again everyone
Mike
Asking for sharpening advice on a hand tool forum is a bit like drinking from a firehose lol
I’ll try to be brief but thorough. Your water stone setup will be fine. Eventually you may want to add a diamond plate for initial flatttening of the back face & also for water stone flattening. It’s important to keep your stones flat, they will dish with use.
Because of the oire nomi’s tapered thickness, the MKII jig may not work well. You could try one of the side-clamp designs if you feel you need a jig. Freehand sharpening is a skill that I’m very happy I took the time to develop though, and I’d be remiss if I didn’t recommend that you try to do the same.
When you flatten the back, you only really need to work the area in front of the hollow (ura in Japanese). When you work the bevel, take short strokes, it is easier to keep from rocking that way. Until you are more comfortable, taking long strokes will almost ensure that you end up with a rounded shape to your bevel. You want to avoid this under normal circumstances. A nice flat bevel is easier to maintain. One of the advantages to Japanese chisels is that no secondary bevel is necessary, which eliminates the need for a jig and simplifies the sharpening process.
My western chisels are 01, so no, I’ve never used a secondary bevel on them. I do not sharpen with a jig. My plane irons do not get microbevels, which is why I dislike A2 for plane cutters. People with A2, D2, or HSS chisels may disagree with you since those alloys are much harder to sharpen hence the short-cut of a microbevel.
Mike, see what I mean? We’re one post in on your sharpening question and already I’ve pissed someone off hahaha
Example basic sharpening method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhgzGI4vlkY
Whats that steel plate ? is it just mild steel ground flat ?
The kanban - an absolutely flat steel plate that serves the same purpose as a diamond stone as far as getting the back flat. Can be steel, some swear by cast iron. But you start with either the plate itself, or with your grit of choice (Silicon carbide) to aid in the flattening process.
Can any waterstone be used to create the slurry on a Kanban? From 240 grit to 8000?