Griz. 1022ZPRO saw parallel alignment changes when raising/lowering blade

I've been trying to align my 3.5 year old 1022ZPRO for the last 4 days. I've finally realized the reason why I cannot get it aligned. I can align the blade to within .001" parallel to the left miter slot with the blade fully raised. But when I lower the blade 1/2 way, the back of the blade shift to the left .012"

Through trial and error, here's two things I've learned:

1. The weight of the motor has something to do with the back of the blade being pulled out of alignment when I lower the blade. If I remove the motor, the blade stays in alignment when it is lowered.
2. The blade is only pulled out of alignment when the saw is at 90 degrees or close to it. If I tilt the blade past say 25 degrees, the blade stays in alignment when I lower or raise the blade.

As it is, the best I can do is to split the difference in the .012" leftward heal shift. I have to adjust the blade at full height so that the back of the blade is shifted .006" to the right. That way when I lower the blade 1/2 way, the back of the blade is .006" to the left.This is still farther out of alignment than the spec'd < .004"

I'm not sure if the blade continues to shift the lower it get because the blade it too low to measure with my alignment tools.

I know there are not many parts to the contractor saw, but I cannot figure out what would be causing this issue. Is there any part that I need to replace? Is is there something that I can adjust to fix this strange shift of the blade when I lower it? Has anyone seen this type of shift before? Do you think .006" is as good as I'll get with a contractor saw? (The reason I ask is because the manual states the blade need to be within .004" parallel to the miter slot.)



Thanks,


Ronnie Ferrell

Sounds like your carriage tubes are twisted. See this link for a better explanation than I could give on the process to fix.

http://media.ptg-online.com/media/dm..._Cs07m.TSD.pdf

I have an old Grizz contractor and this seems to happen just about every time I do a bevel cut; motor weight twists it. Luckily about 99.5% of cuts are square but still a hassle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by M. A. Espinoza

Sounds like your carriage tubes are twisted. See this link for a better explanation than I could give on the process to fix.

http://media.ptg-online.com/media/dm..._Cs07m.TSD.pdf

I have an old Grizz contractor and this seems to happen just about every time I do a bevel cut; motor weight twists it. Luckily about 99.5% of cuts are square but still a hassle.

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Nah, I've already corrected that. the thing that I started fixing 4 days ago or so WAS caused by what you mentioned:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=30527

But now that you mention that, I'm beginning to wonder if some part of my trunnion is not "cast" correctly because come to think of it, I've only noticed the issue I'm having now after I corrected the slight twist in the tie bars. I might add the twist back and see it that helps any. I know that's not how it "should" be, but I'm up for trying anything at this point....

I'm wondering if the iron is worn around the blade height pivot pin since I'm sure I've used the saw for 3.5 years now with the tie bars not parallel. (I'm grasping at straws here...)



Ronnie

So this only happens when the weight of the motor is on the carriage?

I think maybe adjusting it so its as close to spec at the most commonly used blade height might be the way to go.

At least you could keep working. Chasing down stuff like this drives me nuts and as long as I feel comfortable safety wise I've learned to live with some of the shortcomings of my little Grizz. It'll never be a cabinet saw.

That being said I hope you track it down.

Good luck.