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Making Crooked Boards Straight
Straight lining boards the conventional way requires a straightedge at least as long as the board, and is a balancing act of keeping the board and straightedge tight to the saw fence, and through the saw together.
I've been straight lining my solid stock like this for quite awhile and thought I would share it with you. Special equipment? Just an upholstery stapler with ⅜" staples, and a few rips of ¼" plywood.
My only stapler had been a ¼" 18ga Senco that I got back in '92. I came up with this method when I acquired a 22ga upholstery stapler maybe 5 years ago. Both this stapler and my 23ga pin tacker are made by Grex and I've been very happy with them.
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Staples: 18ga vs 22ga
If you don't have an upholstery stapler or pinner, they are a game changer in the work flow. Don't let the small size of these fasteners fool you, they hold. I can glue up a door or drawer in the clamps, shoot the joints together, and immediately pull the clamps. I can make up a whole kitchen's worth of doors or drawers using only 2 clamps...... I digress.
My sticks usually around come about 10' long. I use an 11' straightedge but I've been able straighten up to 13 footers with it. The straightedge is made from 6" rips of ¼" ply. 4" rips can bow laterally.
Unless you have access to oversized sheet goods, you will need to join two rips to make a straightedge over 8' long. Place the factory edge of the rips up against something straight, I used a door level but the factory edge of another sheet of plywood works great too. Bridge the joint on top with another 3-4' long rip of ¼". A little glue and a bunch of ⅜" staples and you're done.
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11' Straightedge.
How does it work? Essentially you're going to "attach" the straightedge to the board using ⅜" staples. The holes left by the staples are so small you'll have a hard time finding them even if you know they're there and are looking for them.
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Place the straightedge on the opposite side of the board you want to straighten.
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Set it so it is even at both ends.
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Shoot it down using 3 staples, one at each end and one in the middle.
To be continued.......
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Making Crooked Boards Straight, continued.
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Measure the narrowest width of the board/straightedge and set you fence just a hair less. Run it through the saw.
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When you're done, pry up the straightedge, turn it over, give the legs of the staples a rap with a hammer and pull them out on the other side.
This technique can be used to make skewed cuts or tapered edges too.
Why Didn't I Think of That!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
andy bessette
Make it easy on yourself and buy a Festool track saw with long guide.
That's an excellent suggestion. I just went on Amazon to place an order for the Festool $600 track saw, 12' worth of guide rail for $465, and the small $600 dust extractor..... $1665 seems pretty reasonable to straight line some lumber.
But wait, now I can't afford the sacrificial material for under the cut. Ahh hell, a few groves in the work bench won't hurt.