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So who is going to be the first to drill and tap their low angle jack plane to accept this new shooting handle? And document it for us all? I have always thought of trying to get a handle from the miter plane to do just this, but LV has just added this. I would’ve done it a few years back but I am no machinist, afraid of screwing up my LA jack
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...42&cat=51&ap=1
Looks like the LA Jack is not tall enough for this accessory.
Kurt, I have not seen or used the shooting handle. My take is that it is designed for use on the new Custom planes. I have written before, and posted several times, that a handle is not needed for the Veritas LA Jack (keeping in mind that I once designed a hotdog handle specifically for it - on my website).
This is from an article I wrote ...
The correct way (in my opinion) of holding the LAJ (and shooting planes generally), is to exert downforce at a central point while simultaneously exerting low lateral sideforce. One must not attempt to simply push the plane against the sidewall to the shooting board. This will unbalance the plane and cause it to cant over.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...ml_309f013.jpg
Downforce is applied by the thumb directly into the dimpled fingerhole. Sideforce is applied by the four fingertips pushing from under the levercap.
This handhold is quite comfortable and makes the LAJ a practical user without a hotdog. Indeed, there is the potential for someone to grasp a hotdog (whether on the LV or LN LAJ planes) and attempt to push it against the fence from high (and not use their fingers to maintain sideways pressure from low).
Contributing to “tippiness” is the amount of “run up” to the board that is used. Many – both experienced and novices alike – will draw the plane back to the start of the runway, and then push it forward fast in an attempt to create momentum, as if this was necessary to power through the end grain. Shooting in this manner would lead to user losing control of the plane.
What is necessary for control is minimum run up. Place the plane with the blade nearly touching the near edge of the board, and then simply push the plane forward, with even pressure and firmly. Since the shaving removed is very fine, a plane with a sharp blade will cut without much effort.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I use a similar grip with my LV Shooting Plane. Even though there is the adjustable tote on the shooting plane, I find gripping around the lever cap with 4 finger and my thumb on top gives me the best control.Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek Cohen
Thank you Derek. I find that when using that grip the side cheek of the plane digs into one's palm and/or the grip itself cramps the hand after a while. Thus I was after something more of a handle to aid comfort. While desired, the shooting plane is just a bit out of reach for the foreseeable future.
Like Derek's hot dog, one was made for my planes years ago:
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?130114
At first a more vertical handle was used, but then it was modified to more resemble a hot dog.
This home made hot dog will fit on just about any Stanley/Bailey style plane larger than a #3.
My LN #62 has an LN hot dog. Having my palm on that and my fingertips on the lever cap gives good controllability.
jtk
Shop made hot dog works for me.
Attachment 392385Attachment 392386
No drilling required.
Don't need a shooting grip now that I bought my Shooting Plane! :) :) :)
But I still have that hotdog handle installed on my BUJ.
Fred
Hi KurtQuote:
Originally Posted by Kurt Cady
Here is the link to my article on building a hotdog handle ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...ck%20pics.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
I use the LN BU Jack as my shooter - with the hot dog attachment. The LV BU Jack doesn't look like it has enough sidewall to track reliably... The times I've handled it at events, it just seemed... not ideal. Thoughts?
Personally, I'm saving for a dedicated shooter.
Hi Ted
The Veritas LA Jack has more registration than the LN #62.
In 2011 I wrote up a comparison of the LN #9 mitre plane, the LN #51 (on a Stanley #52 shooting board), and the Veritas LA Jack. The link is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...sCompared.html
The #51 was head and shoulders the best plane of the three. However, it was a toss up between the Veritas LA Jack and the LN #9. When the LA Jack was used with the correct grip, it turned into a very stable shooter, and was more effective than the LN #9. The #9 was easier to use since it required less technique, but it was not as good a performer as the Veritas LA Jack when used by someone with experience.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I have yet to meet anyone who regrets getting the Veritas Shooting Plane. Of course, if shooting is only done once in a blue moon, the Veritas LAJ is more than good enough. The key to using a bench/block plane to shoot is a sharp blade. The sharper the better...and here is where the PMV11 blades shine when you have lots to shoot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Phillips
Try to go slow; I have seen many shooting boards' fence corners chipped because the users lost control and titled the plane while shooting. My shooting boards have had no one single cut on the fences. I highly recommend people get the Veritas shooting plane track, too.
Simon
Count me as one of those that doesn't regret his Veritas shooting plane. Prior to owning it, I used the low angle jack, and it did a very good job. The shooting plane was supposed to be a luxury purchase, but I do love the heft and the adjustable tote.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen
For those with tight budgets, the low angle jack is a great all-around plane for planing and for shooting. For a good while I used that with three different irons- standard and high angle, plus a toothed iron. Very versatile.
If I still only had the LAJ for shooting, I wouldn't give it a second thought to tap it for the new shooting handle. It's not difficult if you have a drill press and a good tap and die set.