ATB vs FTG on 24tooth Rip Blade - Difference in Cut Quality?

I am looking for a dedicated premium rip blade for my 3hp Sawstop as I have a bunch of projects comping up utilizing 8/4 hardwoods and found something interesting on my search. I always thought 24tooth dedicated rip blades had a flat top grind such as what Ridge Carbide, CMT, FSTool or Freud sells, however, I noticed companies such as Forrest and Tenryu sell their 24 tooth blades as rip but have ATB configuration.

Why aren't all rip blades flat top grind? Which configuration will give me a cleaner rip cut? Is there a difference? I am not a production shop nor do I use a power feeder.

I use a Forrest WWII 24T rip blade 3/32 Kerf on my 3HP SawStop.

Very pleased, it's sometimes hard to tell the jointed edge from the newly ripped edge.

We used the ATB mainly for laminate. For a 10 inch rip blade I like 18 tooth, definitely faster than 20 tooth.

I think atb gives a slightly cleaner cut. But it doesn't leave a flat bottom when used, say, to groove a stile for a panel.

The ATB SHOULD give you a cleaner cut. The FTG is a single flat chip and it basically hacks out the wood, where the slight bevel slices a bit. All other things being equal, you should get a cleaner cut with any multi chip blade. My favorite Glue Line rip is a multi chip blade. The bulk ripper has a way rougher surface. I think the bulk ripper cuts way faster. It depends on what you want to do. you bulk rip with the intent of sending the wood to your jointer/planer, FTG and the speed can be a benefit. If you want to not spend time prepping your wood to be glued, the Glue Line rip really does have a glue ready surface. I love mine.

ATB is less likely to cause splinters as it cuts (much more of an issue on a cross cut). To throw a little more confusion glue line rip blades will have a TCG, or triple chip grind. It's has half the teeth that stick up slightly higher than the other have. The teeth are a flat grind but the ones that stick up higher have both sides beveled. Like the ATB it's not going to leave a flat bottom. Some of the TCG blades will have the tip of the carbide ground flat and then tapered where as standard flat grind and ATB the teeth are just beveled on the side to reduce the chance of burning but are more likely to have the light swirl marks on the cut edge of the wood. If I was looking for a good rip blade I think I would go with a glue line rip with the TCG.

One of the reasons I do not plan to ever reinstall my Infinity 24 tooth ripping blade is the TCG. My PCS has the 1.75hp motor and in cuts on the same piece of wood an older not completely clean Freud with flat teeth cut noticably easier than the Infinity with the TCG. May not matter to those with 3 or 5 hp motors but I will stick with flat top teeth. I was ripping some 1 3/4 cherry yesterday and even my old Freud 24 tooth did not allow a high enough feed rate to avoid burning. So I put on the 24 tooth thin kerf and all was well. High feed rate with no burning.

Different topic but my Infinity 50 tooth all around blade works well in 4/4 stock and has done some deeper cuts for me on occasion. But I don't like their ripping blade. But my preferred blades are Freud. They always seem to work.

Thanks for replies - found out, when ripping they both can produce clean cuts. It’s more about the quality of the plate, grind and tighter tolerances. I remembered that the Carbide Processors site has a wealth of info as well as just picking up the phone and confirming by speaking to a few well respected saw shops.

In all honesty I would just get a really good FTG and not a ATB. The flat top grind is going to stay sharper longer when ripping thick hard woods. The ATB has much finer points that will dull quicker in some dense thick hardwoods. The ATB points do most of the work and round over much quicker at the more shallow angle. Similar to a plane blade that has a more shallow bevel angle. The 90deg angle should be more durable than something more acute.