Will these sharpeners sharpen a carving knife at the correct angle for woodcarving? Will it put a razor edge on the blade?
Thanks,
Paul
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Will these sharpeners sharpen a carving knife at the correct angle for woodcarving? Will it put a razor edge on the blade?
Thanks,
Paul
After looking up Worksharp knife sharpeners it appears they have a lot of different types of gadgets for sharpening. I have no experience with any of them but would suggest first reading The Perfect Edge by Ron Hock. It was recommended by others here when I asked a similar question. I'm only half way into the book but have purchased a leather strop and Flexcut Gold to maintain the edge on my carving tools. Here's a link to the Pinewood Forge website page that has their sharpening recommendations. This is the manufacturer of one of my carving knives.Quote:
Originally Posted by paul handley
https://pinewoodforge.com/sharpening-tips/
The term “razor edge “ I’m sure is used here loosely. I sharpen and shave with straight razors and the angles are way too shallow and the finish (10,000- 15,000 grit +)isn’t possible with these machines. But as Steve said I’m sure there are some jigs to hold the angles and grits that could be fine enough that with some stropping you’d get an edge that can shave arm hair at least . Pretty simple to do with some basic stones or even sandpapers. A strop with a bit of CrOx or diamond spray and you’re good to go.
And like Steve I’m not familiar with thes tool but any edge against spinning wheels or sanding belts the finer and faster the spin the greater chance for heat damage. May be faster with power but things happen quicker as well not always for the good.
Ok, it looks like I forgot to specify which sharpeners I meant. It's the Ken Onion edition. I think I figured it out myself! It seems that the lowest the KO will go is 15 degrees. Taking that to mean 15 degrees on each side, thats too steep if the correct angle is 10 degrees. This degree business is confusing, because unless they state, you may buy the wrong thing.
The link you posted mentioned honing as opposed to stropping. I always thought they mean the same thing. Apparently honing is just the final sharpening step prior to stropping. Once honed you should never have to do it again unless you get a nick in the edge. I should never have to sharpen because I do my carving over a carpeted floor and always keep the tools separate. I tried stropping my knives on a leather wheel in my drill AND by hand on a piece of leather. Honestly, I think manually I got a sharper edge on the piece of leather. My test wood was a piece of cherry end grain.
10 degrees each side would be in the ballpark. Total angle for a razor is mid teens. Those would not work for carving tools.
youll never have to hone again ,,,,, as long as you don’t carve or ever strop your chisel.