beismeyer fence is not flat? saw marks as I am ripping?

As others have indicated the fence is plywood with laminate over it. You need to peel the laminate off which is not easy but you need to do this so you can access the screws that attach the fence to the tube. Don't throw the fence away because you need to use it as a template. Once the fence is off you can check to see if your tube is flat or not. If the tube is out you can mark the areas where you will need to shim it.

You can use the old fence as a template for the screw holes so the new fence will fit. The screws are recessed in the fence so by using Corian you will have the holes showing but are high enough not to be an issue. You then shim the fence flat.

Before you take apart the fence have you tried to adjust your fence to get rid of the dip? If you have a dip in the middle of the fence you may need to shim it but if its on one of the ends adjusting the fence can help. I have a slight dip in the middle of my fence but the boards come out fine. I set it at 5 inches and they come out 5 inches.

When you make a new one, I'd leave the screws exposed (obviously countersunk). That way you can remove it later or fine tune the shimming as needed.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cody michael

how exactly did you do this?

---

Been a while but as I recall I used screwdrivers or chisels to provide space for the shims. Also, this is a long thread so sorry if someone suggested this already but two more solutions:

1) At one time I picked up a PM TS fence (I temporarily use it on a custom track saw table). The faces on that fence as I recall were 1/2" UHMW material. There were "key" hole slots cut from the bottom along the length. Bolt heads fit in the slots and the threaded ends went into holes in the metal fence itself and were fastened with nuts. This way with your Corian you could adjust the vertical height of the fence face and easily add shims if needed.

2) Rockler sells Universal Fence Clamps (Linky) - these may work for you too.


Mike

I bolted up the corian, it turned out decent, shimmer some spots, used card scraper on some and got it pretty flat. I drilled holes oversized so it can flex. I cut some boards today and the teeth marks are barely noticeable to completely gone depending on the board


With my wwII blade I think something like 50 tooth, it is supposed to be like a cut everything blade. But on some walnut like 7/8 thick it burns very badly, on sassafras and pine it cuts cleanly... is this normal? It is freshly sharpened

You need to make sure your fence is set up right. It should be slight kicked out like a 1/64 at the top. Sounds like the wood is getting pinched slightly as it goes thorough.

As the wood hits the end of the fence it gets pinched and gets pushed back into the blade. It's more noticible on longer pieces.