Move Y axis E-Stop ?

Hi,

Have some questions about improving my honeycomb area on my 5070.

In looking at where my 0,0 Red Dot falls on the bed, I see I have a lot of wasted space behind that on my honeycomb, see 2.095 inches in attached.

Attachment 449212


I also see that when I go to the 700 limit on my X axis, it goes off the honeycomb and onto the frame.
Attachment 449214


Can I unbolt the E stop and slide it towards the back wall, and re-mount it ?
In doing so, would it then readjust and slide the 700x500 limits back based on that E stop ?

I can't slide my honeycomb frame fwd, as I only have 0.15" clearance between outside edge and front rail.

Thoughts, suggestions ?

Cad

By 'E stop', you mean the 'find home' limit switches? You can put them anywhere you want, just make sure the switch will operate, and be aware of the actual physical limits of the gantry--

I have the same problem on the X axis of my 1390 Triumph that you have, only reversed- they mounted the limit switch about 1" too far to the right, so at 0mm I have lots of free space to the left, and the 1300mm point is beyond the honeycomb. The grantry will go there, but at about 1250mm I run out of bearing rail-! Been like that for 7 years, I could move it but just really haven't needed to...

Hi Kev,
Thanks for the reply.
I guess my question is, if I slide the Y limit switch say 50mm, will my 500mm slide with it? In other words, does the 0,0 corner of the size (700x500), start based on where the limit switch says stop?
Thanks

On LS500 I moved the X and Y switches so that I get 25MM more bed each way

Every type of machine run by computer requiring a 'starting point' relies on some sort of switch to determine that point. I mean, you car won't even start until the ECM knows which piston is ready to fire, which is accomplished by some sort of crankshaft/camshaft/?- sensor. All of my tool machines have X,Y and Z limit switches to find their respective starting points. Same with all my C02 lasers.

So yes, when moving a start-point determining limit switch, everything moves with it since the zero-point moves. But remember, the actual working area is determined by the controller, but the actual travel limits of the gantry are determined by the laser's mechanical design... If for example, if you have a 900mm X work range, and move the X starting point 100m to the right, the 900mm point also moves 100mm right, as determined by the controller. But what if the gantry will only move 50mm right before it mechanically jams against the cabinet wall, or the Y rail, the belt cog, etc..? The gantry WILL most definitely jam if you try to engrave or cut beyond 850mm...

This is my Triumph, which has needed the X limit switch moved since day 1 ;)

This is the end-of-travel, the beam center is way beyond the honeycomb-
Attachment 449429
and the laser head just barely doesn't hit the Y rail bearing support!

this machine has simple roller bearings that ride on round rails. In this
pic notice where the end of the rail is in relation to the bearing, vs how
far the gantry can travel--
Attachment 449431
-yup- when the gantry is at it's far right, the right rollers are OFF the rails!
So, I don't go there very often! :D

Back at home position, I have LOTS of spare honeycomb, and quite
a bit of space I can move left before I run out of rail. I just need to
move the limit switch about 7/8" left my actual work area would all
be within the honeycomb, and useable...
Attachment 449428
--just need to do it :)

Said all that to point out that it's totally OK to move the limit switches, just be aware of the machine's mechanical limits, because the controller doesn't have a clue!

Ok, makes perfect sense.

I have about 3 inches of Y of Honeycomb that I could gain, but the Stepper motor would hit the laser tube if I go that far back.
So just looking to gain about 50mm.
Just wanting to know if the controller x and y dimensions were based on the reset and finding the limit switches for 0,0.

On mine I adjusted the size in the software and wrote it to the controller

good point, that works too :)

it worked, moved the limit switch from right screw hole to left screw hole, to re-use same tapped holes, and gained 15mm.
So now just need to figure out thread size of screws and drill and tap new holes. Sure wish it was horz groove that I could slide, but any MM gain is awesome, esp since my honeycomb already has it.
I might just tap several holes 15mm apart and pick any 2 until I run out of physical room or clearance, then tweak X/Y in software for my front left and right corners.

Thanks again Kev.