Replacement for Watco Danish Oil in CA?

I'm long time user of Watco Danish Oil as an initial finish because I like the way it brings out the figure in the wood and when I wet sand the slurry fills pores nicely. I usually add shellac or polyurethane as top coat. Problem is I can't find WAtco here in San Diego. I believe new regulations prohibit it for environmental reasons.

looking for any suggestions for a replacement with similar characteristics, not necesarily complete finish solution, just something that brings out the figure, fills pores and hopefully dries relatively quickly. Thanks in advance for your help!

Best, Mike

Look at FWW #264, IIRC. There is an article in it of a guy using Osmo PolyOx to finsih a table top where he wet sands in the first coat of finish to fill the grain, than applies 2 or 3 more coats to build the finish. Sure looks nice. PolyOx comes in satin and gloss and is available in quite a few colors, too. Don't get hung up on the price. A little goes a long way.

John

There have been several threads recently talking about Rubio MonoCoat, Osmo PolyX, etc., which are a different breed of finishes that also don't go up against VOC rules. They are easy to use and provide pleasing results.

That said, if you can get mineral spirits, you can make your own "Danish Oil" like Watco by just thinning whatever oil based product that is available to you if you can't source it as a wipe on from the store.

My goto finish is 1/3 oil (tung or BLO), 1/3 varnish (regular oil based or spar), 1/3 turpentine or mineral spirits with a bit of Japan drier added. I have been using this for years and it works very nicely.

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Originally Posted by John TenEyck

Look at FWW #264, IIRC. There is an article in it of a guy using Osmo PolyOx to finsih a table top where he wet sands in the first coat of finish to fill the grain, than applies 2 or 3 more coats to build the finish. Sure looks nice. PolyOx comes in satin and gloss and is available in quite a few colors, too. Don't get hung up on the price. A little goes a long way.

John

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The article is in FWW 262. I just downloaded it and I'm considering using the PolyOx on a gun stock I'm working on. How well does the PolyOx repel water?

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Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette

The article is in FWW 262. I just downloaded it and I'm considering using the PolyOx on a gun stock I'm working on. How well does the PolyOx repel water?

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Not like a true film finish. Water doesn't seem to hurt Rubio Monocoat (and I assume PolyOx as well) but the wood fibers swell slightly, then return to normal after it dries out again. That's probably not something I'd want with a gun stock. I would think more about using something like True Oil.

John

Thanks for the reply John, what's your opinion of using Waterlox and wet sanding to fill the grain then finish with a couple top coats of straight Waterlox?

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Originally Posted by Michael Schuch

My goto finish is 1/3 oil (tung or BLO), 1/3 varnish (regular oil based or spar), 1/3 turpentine or mineral spirits with a bit of Japan drier added. I have been using this for years and it works very nicely.

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I read years ago that’s the recipe Watco used: oil, varnish, solvent.

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Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette

Thanks for the reply John, what's your opinion of using Waterlox and wet sanding to fill the grain then finish with a couple top coats of straight Waterlox?

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That would be an excellent choice. I'm surprised you can buy Waterlox if you can't get Danish Oil. In any case, Waterlox should work great.

John

Checking the internet today, Watco seems to be available in all the usual outlets including Amazon

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Originally Posted by Michael Schuch

My goto finish is 1/3 oil (tung or BLO), 1/3 varnish (regular oil based or spar), 1/3 turpentine or mineral spirits with a bit of Japan drier added. I have been using this for years and it works very nicely.

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I would be interested to learn more the specific products you purchase, where you buy, and the mix ratio. I could imagine this becomes my default finish if I can learn how to make it.