Chisel technique

This is probably old hat to many here, but I was watching a YT video...someone setting a hinge. The motise went precariously close to the outer edge...maybe leaving 1/8” or so. Instead of cleaning up that line using the flat side of the chisel, he used the bevel side. The chisel was angled up so the bevel was perpendicular with the edge. Said it would put less stress on the thin edge.

I’ve been using that technique for a few things lately and it works well for me. Seems to be a little easier to nip off small aounts to creep up to the line. Is that something others here do?

One of my tasks today was to cut a half dozen hinge mortises. This sounds similar to my technique. Couldn't say for sure without seeing the video, any chance for a link?

My side rebate plane wouldn't fit. :D

jtk

Jim, I found it...been watching too many box and veneer videos lately. It was a older Paul Sellers video “Making a dovetail box - part 4, setting the hinges”. First time I’ve seen a chisel used that way.

https://youtu.be/gcQATQLzDuw

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Originally Posted by Phil Mueller

This is probably old hat to many here, but I was watching a YT video...someone setting a hinge. The motise went precariously close to the outer edge...maybe leaving 1/8” or so. Instead of cleaning up that line using the flat side of the chisel, he used the bevel side. The chisel was angled up so the bevel was perpendicular with the edge. Said it would put less stress on the thin edge.

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Are you talking about what he does at 10:30 or so?

If so I think it's just personal preference. Note that if he were to push from the handle in that configuration he would actually be pushing into the thin wall, which is exactly what you don't want to do. In this case he provides much of the downforce from the back of the chisel with his thumb, though, such that he's pushing straight down and doesn't have that problem.

The reason I think it's just preference is that you can achieve exactly the same cutting mechanics and forces by aligning the back of the chisel with the back wall of the mortise and pushing straight down. In either case you're pushing straight down along a reference face that's aligned to the back of the mortise.

Riding the bevel matters more when you're cutting deep mortises and waste clearance is an issue. Because the bevel is a shorter face than the back (duh) it offers more clearance.

When I have that situation, I use a knife to cut the back line, then chisel (very carefully) up to it. I've broken too many thin backs trying to use a chisel downward in that situation.

Mike

The main reason I use a chisel bevel down when doing hinge mortises, is to keep the chisel from digging in too deep. By riding the bevel, I can control much or how little I pare off....

( Says the guy who use to have to do 40 passage door installs a day....)

This is pretty much the same way the back of my hinge mortises are trimmed if the need it. One of my pin marking gauges has more of a knife point than a pin point and it is usually pretty good at making a smooth back for the mortise. Occasionally the grain cause a touch of wandering, then a chisel can be used in this manner to clean up the edge.

My hinge mortises are usually not chopped as Mr. Sellers does, especially for small hinges. Once the mortise is marked out, a chisel is used to pare out the ends making troughs. Then the middle is pared out. This leaves a smooth surface on which the hinge will seat.

My current project is nearing completion and has been photographed to be posted here.

jtk

Technique for me depends on the hinge size. One thing I always do is make sure I get the ends cut down to the mortise bottom. My experience has been that break outs are caused by continuous grain at the end of the back corners. I just pare at the bottom then take light cuts from the top to get to the edge. I break out a back every so often because I don't follow my own rules. Same thing happens on dovetail base lines when my mind overrides my good sense.
Jim