Delta 34-350 info

I just bought a Delta 34-350 (12-14inch)table saw. I got this thing for 150 bucks and has the fence with it.

I am going to change out the 3 phase motor and replace it with a 5 hp single phase.

I am wondering if anyone out there has used one or has one and can tell me the good things and bad things and all that stuff. I was in the market for a new table saw and the main thing I wanted was large top and this pretty much does that.

Can it be tuned up to be a really accurate saw?

Thanks for any info and once I get it in my possession I will take before and after pics because I am pretty much going to take it apart, replace what needs replaced and paint and make it look great again.

Karl,
You did good at $150! We had one of those in the aircraft woodshop where I worked for 37 years. It was bought in 1958 and to my knowledge, nothing was ever done to it except use it, extremely hard some days. We cut everything imaginable, 1/4" aluminum, fiberglass, tons of MDF and plywood. I did, however, finally have to change the bearings in 2004. Other than that, it was a great saw for many years. It was still kicking when I left in 2009.
We used to call it "the meat saw" because it cut off several fingers. Be careful! Almost impossible to stall that 5 hp motor.

Good luck with it. You got a good deal.

joe

Karl, there's nothin' not good about that big Delta TS. If you can swing the size, all is well. Probably the worst would be if new arbor bearings are needed, but that is to be expected over years. Check pulleys for loose set screws. (some may have two piggybacked set screws) Check the quad belts for wear.

Here's a parts diagram to download if you do not already have it:

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=531

Tune the big saw up as you would any smaller cabinet saw. An internal cleaning with compressed air and dry Teflon lube of moving parts should get it adjusting smoothly. With your paltry (You Suck!) investment, you can certainly afford to find the right single-phase 5hp motor.

The existing Size 1 (rated 30A) magnetic starter contacts should be heavy enough to handle the 1ph amperage. But, remember that overload heaters will have to be changed out to reflect the higher amperage of the new motor. The old 3ph motor was around 13A on three legs. Your 1ph motor will be around 21A on two legs.

Good Luck, Enjoy!

~~Chip~~

Thanks for the info and Chip thanks for the parts diagram. All I can say is that I started out with a Ryobi 3100 and I bought it at what I thought was cheap but then I added so much money into it then it still wasnt what I wanted. 98 percent of my wood is imported stuff like brazilian walnut, teak, purpleheart and well you get the idea, and I just wanted a good saw to cut through this stuff alot better than the ryobi. I feel like I got my wish. As far as savings I was set to spend about 1300 dollars this september for a new saw and then I came across this one and kinda fell for it.

I do have a question though, I can get a single phase 5 hp motor from grizzy for about 369 or I can get a 5 hp single phase from leeson for about 600 bucks.... I realize leeson has a good name but what are the cons of going with the grizzly motor?
Or pros of going with a leeson or even a baldor?

Hey Karl,

Good find. IMO on motors is chinese motors are worth very little and Baldor is one of the best of the American made motors. Do you really need 5hp? Maybe a 3 would work and save some bucks. I have a 3hp uni and it is scary powerful but I rarely cut thicker than 2 by.

A vfd would keep that very uncomplicated 3ph motor going for about 250.00 and allow you to stay at 5hp and give motor brake too.

Any way you go it's a fine saw.

The shop of a good friend, 12/14 in the foreground and a 10" uni at the rear. I built and installed bessy clone fences on both saws, using only the eccentric and handle from the original fences. The big saw is just as accurate as the ten inch Uni, but a bit noisier, I think because of the larger motor and blade.

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/v...feedtable1.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chip Lindley

Karl, there's nothin' not good about that big Delta TS. If you can swing the size, all is well. Probably the worst would be if new arbor bearings are needed, but that is to be expected over years. Check pulleys for loose set screws. (some may have two piggybacked set screws) Check the quad belts for wear.

Here's a parts diagram to download if you do not already have it:

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=531

Tune the big saw up as you would any smaller cabinet saw. An internal cleaning with compressed air and dry Teflon lube of moving parts should get it adjusting smoothly. With your paltry (You Suck!) investment, you can certainly afford to find the right single-phase 5hp motor.

The existing Size 1 (rated 30A) magnetic starter contacts should be heavy enough to handle the 1ph amperage. But, remember that overload heaters will have to be changed out to reflect the higher amperage of the new motor. The old 3ph motor was around 13A on three legs. Your 1ph motor will be around 21A on two legs.

Good Luck, Enjoy!

~~Chip~~

---

I disagree, a NEMA size 1 is NOT suitable for a 5 HP 1Ø motor a NEMA size 1 1/2 1Ø starter or a size 2 starter is required. A 5 HP 1Ø motor is in excess of the rated HP of a size 1 starter so it is not allowed to exceed it.

I had actualy gotten some info from a guy over at the OWWM site and he is using a VFD on his 5hp 3ph "MONSTER". I may go that route myself. Just depends on the shape of the motor in it. I have also seen a few leeson and a few baldor hanging around in the area with a descent price. My thoughts are that I need to find out how much a replacement motor is for a 5 hp single phase vs. a 3 phase. If the 3 phase is higher then I may just go with the single phase now and be done with it. But the 3 phase may last longer than me, who knows.... The reason I want to stay with the 5 hp is because I cut alot of very dense wood like 12/3 purpleheart and other woods similar to that. Plus if I ever decide to go with a 14 inch blade I think Id rather have the 5 hp backing it up than a 3 hp. Did I mention that I was power hungry....lol

Well I apprecaite all the input and I get to go get the saw on July 30th and I really think I will have it ready to go in a couple of days just as long as I do not have to order anything. Then I will write up a gloat thread with pictures because it is happening...lol

That's one great set-up, Mike!

That's an awesome saw. We have one at the shop with a Beismeyer fence on it. It's stall proof and very accurate. I have no idea how old it is, but believe it was bought used about 30 years ago. To my knowledge it has only had new belts and a significant tune up once in that time. The only downside is that it takes blades with 1" center holes and they are much more expensive than the 10" blades with 5/8" center holes.

Charley

Karl, The 5hp from Baldor or Leeson will be well over 400 bucks. Outside of Clist, the Bay is a good place to look. After you look for a while you will see who's a rip off and who's reasonable.

I just picked up a 3hp A.O. Smith motor on the Bay for 99 bucks so you need to hunt around a bit.

I ended up getting a Baldor single phase 7.5 hp motor. Needless to say it does not stall.... Got the baldor freshly redone for $300. Very heavy motor...

It is a unisaw clone just bigger. I removed the sheet metal plinth and made a mobile base.
The removable arbor is CCW threads. The arbor is 30 degrees with a 5/8 left hand thread holding it in. The arbor pin wrench is 1/4" holes on about 1+7/8 spacing. It is NOT the common 2" spacing. The arbor uses a 7/16 hex wrench. Not all came with a removable arbor.
You have to buy a hook spanner to remove one bearing. That is about a two inch diameter ring.
I believe the arbor is 5/8-11 CCW. Some pipe reamers are 30 degrees in case you need to clean up the female taper.
I am in the process of making a 5/8 arbor for it now.



RIVING KNIFE; upgrade
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?133210-Delta-34-350-12-14-quot-riving-knife-retrofit

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/1214NewArbor.ashx

On mine the motor pulley was a taper lock four groove pulley. I had to replace the hub to mate with the new motor. I understand the groove spacing is an oddball and you will not be able to buy any matching pulleys. The riving knife I linked to replaced the pulleys with serpentine belts and pulleys.
Just like a unisaw the top lifts off after removing four bolts. The side wing tables weigh about 60 pounds each. The main table at about triple that.

FYI Some links
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/1214NewArbor.ashx