Dust Collector Motor

I recently bought a dust collector off CL. It has a motor of 1.5HP, single phase, 220V. The DC brand is Bridgewood, made in Taiwan in 2003. The induction motor nameplate says 12 amp, which indicates a low motor efficiency given its 1.5HP. The motor has a start cap, not a run cap. The dust collector is a typical single stage system with a 12" impeller; I noticed the blades are of a fairly primitive design using straight blades, instead of more advanced curved blades for a higher efficiency.

When I turned the power switch on, even with a 30 amp breaker, the motor would start and run about 10 - 20 seconds before trip the breaker; at the point the electric wire was warm to touch. I checked the start cap and the centrifugal switch; both looks fine to me. With the cover at the back of the motor removed, I can see the motorAttachment 357670Attachment 357671 shaft started to rotate and the centrifugal switch disengage and then spring back when the breaker was tripped; to me this indicates a functional start cap and switch. The bearings seem fine to me as well; it is free to rotate and I do not hear any abnormal noise when turning it. The receptacle voltage on the wall was 240v.

Even though the seller agreed to compensate for the faulted dust collector, I am still kinda interested in figuring out the issue with this motor. I suspect the winding has problems; maybe the there is short or the insulation is degraded over time. I understand that the motor is not really worth my salvage if the winding gets problems. However I am curious.

My question is if there is a quick, easy way to check the winding, without taking it to a motor shop. Another question is that the wiring diagram (for 110v and 220v) was kinda confusing which is attached in this post. Hopefully somebody from this forum can help me understand the wiring diagram and also provide insights to the motor start/run issue. I appreciate the help.

-Sam

Sam, I assume you are using 220v since you mentioned 240 at the wall outlet?! if that is the case you would jumper or wire terminals 2 and 3 together and your 2 wires from the cord would go to terminals 4 and 1. If that is how it is wired then it sounds like the motor is bad if all else checks out. Did you actually check the start capacitor with a meter? it may look good but could be bad?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Melvin Graybill

If that is how it is wired then it sounds like the motor is bad if all else checks out. Did you actually check the start capacitor with a meter? it may look good but could be bad?

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I suspected that too. Bought a new capacitor with the same rating and put it in; still the same problem.

Thanks
Sam

Sam,

Are you running it with the DC filter bag and hose connected? If not, you are running under the maximum current conditions (no resistance on the motor). If that is the case try covering 1/2 -2/3 of the intake and run it again. Also, your motor is a Class A insulated motor which is never used in DC applications anymore. Motors are rated A-F, F being able to withstand extreme high coil temperatures due to extra insulation on the wiring. If you look at most any new cyclone literature about motors they brag about the motor being class F.

Let us know what happens,

Carl

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Carl Kona

Sam,

Are you running it with the DC filter bag and hose connected? If not, you are running under the maximum current conditions (no resistance on the motor). If that is the case try covering 1/2 -2/3 of the intake and run it again.
Let us know what happens,

Carl

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Forgot to mention that I took the DC to pieces: the impeller was taken off the motor shaft; however, I do notice without a load the motor runs a bit longer before tripping the breaker.

-Sam