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I have only been turning a little over a year and have not turned green wood to date. I recently saw another post here about residue buildup on bandsaw blades from sawing green wood. Does sap and pitch build up on turning tools also from green wood? I assume the answer is yes, but wanted to be prepared for the downsides associated with green wood in advance. I assume that this might be one of them.
I don't turn green too often but have occasionally seen a bit of buildup on tools, but nothing like on the bandsaw. (I do process a lot of green wood both on the shop bandsaw and the WoodMizer sawmill.) Pine pitch is the worst I've run into but I've gotten it on hardwoods too. Sap in most hardwoods is mostly water. I think the bandsaw is worse since the smooth non-cutting sides of the blade are constantly rubbing against the wood. A gouge contacts only on the cutting edge with plenty more wood coming to more-or-less clean off the edge. I'm sure someone who turns green wood a lot will have better information.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Heinemann
IMO, the biggest downside of turning green wood is it can throw liquid everywhere and make a huge mess. The second "issue" is that it's more work to make the final piece round, if that's your thing. (It usually is for me.) On the plus side the wood is cheap or free and the turning is very easy. Some people start turning green and it's so much fun they never turn anything else!
BTW, to clean off the sides of bandsaw blades I hold something against the blade while it's running. For the shop saw I use the end of a length of square brass tubing. For the sawmill I use a big, long-handled screwdriver (while standing behind). The brass tubing can even clean the sides of the teeth somewhat without harm but I'm very careful to keep the screwdriver from touching even the gullets. Sap buildup on either machine can mess with the cut, especially on the sawmill.
JKJ
To answer your question directly about tool build-up; yes.
I don't believe it is an issue, one just cleans tools, hands, clothing and nearby walls. I ensure I wear a mask which usually, but not always, gets covered in a fine mist like spray.
Last week my neighbour took delivery of a cut up fallen red gum in a friend's backyard after a winter storm went through, I selected some pieces to make bowls for them and myself. I received the timber around 12-15 hours after the tree had fallen, it was very wet and like slicing butter with a hot knife; fast and furious. I cut the blanks with my bandsaw realising then, that turning was going to be easy as. I would think each blank took about 10 minutes from start to finish, tops.
Cleaning up is a bit of an issue and with knowledge gained from experience, I cleaned the band saw blade immediately after cutting when everything was still wet(ish). I use a small brass brush on the blade and a scraper on the guide bearings to remove deposits. I then opened the wheel housings and cleaned, with my gloved fingers, the band saw tyres; takes a few minutes but saves heaps of time and effort later.
As for the tools, essentially I only had a few to clean, two bowl gouges and a skew chisel.
Pictures of the river red gum (Eucalyptus camaldulensis) that I turned, along with my chisels after using but prior to re-sharpening, although they had both been wiped down.
Mick.
Attachment 387824 Attachment 387825 Attachment 387826
Based on the 2 responses so far, it appears that, the residue on the tools isn't much of an issue with green wood. However, the spraying of liquid (sap mixed with water I assume) seems like more of an issue. While I know it's much easier to turn green wood, it might not be worth the mess or am I making too much of the liquid spray issue?
I think you’re making too much of an issue - timbers like pine that throw pitch may be the big exception (I never turn pine). Maple, madrone, alder, locust, and walnut are all local woods that are available green. They’ll throw water while roughing, but that's part of the fun. I had heard that the water content of madrone is among the highest of any tree in the world. You may want to wear a raincoat when roughing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Heinemann
There's few things I find more enjoyable than turning wet wood whether its going to finished piece or roughed blank to sit and dry for a few months. The shop is setup with a plastic curtain behind me to contain the shavings from flying throughout the rest ofthe shop. The stained line on the walls and cieling above are flags that immediately let other turners know you love turning green.
Maple and madrone sap can be sticky (think maple syrup watered down...) but it cleans up easily with a little 409 and a rag - or some bit cleaner if it has been allowed to dry. If you get it quickly when you’re done with the bandsaw its an easy, quick cleanup.
Roughing wet wood is an excellent way to hone your tool control skills. Once you’ve got the blank balanced there is little effort involved and you can try different approaches, play with your grind and get immediate feedback. If you’re a neat freak you can try to hone the skill Glen Lucas shows in many of his videos where he actually directs the shavings into a dumpster while he’s roughing...really easy cleanup.
I live for those days when processing fresh timber - from the chainsaw work to roughing blanks, but especially the roughing part. I always come away completely exhausted, wet and filthy, but usually with some new skill or at least knowledge I didn’t have before (and drying racks full of promise).
That river red gum looks luscious, and would be fun to turn. You blokes have some really interesting wood down under.
Green Wood is so much fun more to turn. It’s hard on the bandsaw but turning tools get a quick wipe with the hand and sharpen at the grinder- clean tool.
Green wood- cool wet shavings. Long ribbons flying all over the place. Big hogging cuts roughing out the shape.
Dry wood- hot sawdust and chips. Tool chatter. Slower/shallower cuts. Frequent sharpening.
I exaggerate some. I enjoy the entire process of making a bowl but green Wood is so much more fun to turn for me. I think that’s why I gravitate to NE bowls. I’m not particularly good at them but I turn them thin and green and let them dry to a final shape. No finish turning. I have a stack of roughed out bowls going back a few years I haven’t gotten back to.
I turn green and then dry before final. I have not had a problem with buildup on tools but I do give them a quick wipe with a paper towel at the end.
Some do sling water but most not much. My tool cabinet is behind the lathe. To keep anything (including chips) from them I installed a vinyl shade which I can pull down (about $20). I droop it over the ways of the lathe also if I can. Of course you have to let it dry from water or finish before retracting it.
I have bought about a dozen spindle blanks in over ten years but never a bowl blank. I may change if someone can suggest a good vendor; I would be looking for dry bowl blanks about 16" D X 4" thick for about $10 including shipping.
Since I have plenty of free that is about my $$ limit unless it is something special like a burl.
I did round a few on my bandsaw and even made a circle cutting jig. I just knock off the corners with a chainsaw now.
It takes8 me longer to clean the bandsaw than to bring it round on the lathe.
Just my experience and no problem with other who do different.
I've used Simple Green to clean up band saw blades. Lucky I have some large developing trays from my darkroom days and a 111 inch band saw blade folded once fits nicely. I save the Simple Green so it's no problem to moisten a towel and clean up anything that needs it. I know some people that simply sharpen a gouge with gunk on it but I can't think that's good for the wheels. I don't think Simple Green is a problem but then maybe it is?
Well, I do keep a wire wheel on one of my grinders. If the gunk stays on too long it does get in the way of sliding the tool over the tool rest. Oh, this is on both the tool and the tool rest. The wire wheel makes short work of it. Of course, I have to sharpen again...
robo hippy