Advice needed wrt storing freshly downed wood
Hey all, I will be getting started with turning in weeks/months but I bumped into an opportunity for free wood and couldn't pass it up. My neighbor took down a large river birch in his yard. I rescued 3 nice chunks from his firewood pile the next day, before they started to check. I coated the end grain with Rockler's version of Anchorseal and they are now sitting in my garage.
2 pieces are crotches and the other should be nice straight grain. All 16-18" diameter. I'm hoping that the crotches will have some nice figure for platters and the straight piece will give me several nice pepper mill blanks.
Having never started with freshly downed wood, I have a question about how promptly I need to cut the turning blanks from these pieces. Can I wait a few months or should I try to cut these up immediately? Would prefer to wait a bit if I can. Also, another question I have is whether, after cutting the blanks, should I coat the entire blank in "anchorseal", or just the end grain, so that the blank can dry a bit through face grain.
Appreciate your advice on this.
Thanks!
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more about processing green wood into dry blanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Brian Tymchak
Thank you all for your responses. I checked those pieces this morning and 2 of the 3 have started to check from the pith. So, it looks like your advice to cut those immediately is spot on. I wonder if the sealer helped at all.
I do intend to let these blanks dry. Although I don't have any experience at this, I figured that platters and peppermills are better turned dry than wet. Appreciate the confirmation on that thinking.
I'm totally unprepared at this point to handle green wood. I'll have to cut these down to manageable size with a chainsaw tomorrow (always fun to get a new toy!) to move them to my basement shop where I can bandsaw to final size. Not sure how often I will be doing this sort of thing. ...
Brian,
Some tree sections of some species will start to check within minutes of cutting. If you catch it early enough, the pith and end checks are not usually a problem. Early end checks usually don't go very deep. It's important to remove them, though, since the small cracks can propagate into large cracks and splits. When processing wood into blanks to dry I remove a very thin slice off both ends and flex them. If they break easily I slice a little more and test again. Then when I reach sound wood I seal immediately.
On the practical side, I put an inch or so of sealer in a plastic coffee container. A cheap 2-3" disposable paint brush will fit nicely inside. No need to ever clean the brush - just put it inside and close the lid when done. If the sealer thickens a little as it dries in the can that's good - it just goes on thicker! I usually leave the lid off for a few days just so it will thicken. (They make it runny so it can be sprayed, for example at a sawmill operation.)
If new to chainsaws, be VERY careful. When I got my first chainsaw (and my tractor, bobcat, etc.) I researched to find all the ways to be seriously maimed or killed. It is surprising how just doing one thing wrong can instantly ruin your life. If new to chainsaws, if at all possible find someone with experience that you trust to help get started. The little book "The Good Woodcutters Guide" is an excellent education. https://www.amazon.com/Good-Woodcutt.../dp/1890132152 The chainsaw manuals are worth reading front to back.
Same thing with bandsaws. If not experienced with cutting green wood on a bandsaw be advised that although it is one of the safest saws things can go wrong in an instant if unaware of the dangers. For example, I often cut round log sections but never unsupported - cutting any piece without full support from where the blade enters the wood and to the bandsaw table can cause the blade to grab, slam the wood to the table, destroy the blade, and possibly damage the bandsaw. People have been injured and lost fingers. With the wood properly supported it is extremely safe. If not experienced with cutting round things perhaps a local turner could help get started. Or take a drive down the road to TN - I've had two classes so far on preparing turning blanks from green wood and some have asked for another one when I get time. (If you come, bring my brother - he's up the road in Marysville!)
A great book to read is "Understanding Wood" by R. Bruce Hoadley. https://www.amazon.com/Understanding.../dp/1561583588 Hoadley is not only a wood expert but a craftsman. I think it is extremely important to understand just how wood behaves as it dries and as the humidity changes after it dries. Platters are usually turned from dry wood since a face turning (with the grain going across the face) can warp like crazy, depending on where in the log the blank comes from. In extreme cases a beautiful platter can look like a pringles potato chip in short order. Same thing for bowls, if the intent is to have a round bowl that stays round and sits flat on a table. Many people do like to turn bowls from green wood and just let it warp. Lots of people like that look. From what I've seen over the years in club show-and-tell sessions a lot of people have never bothered to learn how wood shrinks as it dries. :(
Blanks that are used for peppermills, boxes, and other similar things are also typically turned from dry wood. If turned from wet wood they can shrink and warp while drying, depending again on where the blank is cut from the log. The book Understanding Wood will help a lot with understanding this! If the wood is not dry all the way through even an end grain turning like a pepper mill can go out of round enough to cause a functional problem. One way to solve this is to rough turn the mill or box blank then let it dry before final turning, perhaps drilling a hole down the center to allow it to dry quickly.
Note that the species of wood can make a lot of difference in stability. For example, mesquite can be very stable. Oak can be horrible. I don't know about birch since I've never tried to turn it green.
Don't hesitate to ask specific questions about processing, drying, and turning dry wood! I have turned a lot of wet green wood and it's a while lot of fun but I don't find it that interesting (for one thing, turning bowls from green wood is just too easy.) I find turning dry wood more challenging and rewarding, especially when turning harder and denser woods. I also prefer to turn smaller things which leaves me out of the bigger and bigger bowl club. :)
BTW, I find processing green wood into dry turning blanks very addictive, almost as much as turning. As a result, I have WAY too much turning stock, probably 4 lifetimes worth at the moment!! (not even counting the exotics) Maybe I need to seek out some professional help...
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JKJ