Question about table saw

Hello all!
Let me start by saying that this is a great site and is my usual "go-to" site for most things woodworking, so thank you! I have been woodworking on and off since 2009 after seeing a cool log cabin bird feeder that a friend made. Now woodworking is something that I really enjoy and get great satisfaction out of and also use as an excuse to by cool toys.:D
I am a veteran and hold a bachleors degree in computer science, which I presently do not use since I find more enjoyment out of working on remodeling rather than sitting in a small office behind a computer all day. Anyways, on with it...
My question is about a table saw.
It is a MiniMax SC3. A friend of mines grandfather passed away and I have the opportunity to purchase this saw. I want to be fair but I have no expierence of what these things cost. I have seen price ranges from 1500 on up.
The saws slide had some 1x10 wolmenized wood pieces on it and became very rusty to the point of almost being pitted, although it seemed to clean up well. The bearings are worn out (I think) but it still slides easily. However there seems to be a little 'slop' in it. The table top was also rusty but cleaned up very well and shows no sign of pitting. It also runs very smoothly and cuts great.
I know nothing about this kind of saw. This would be a huge upgrade from my current tablesaw which is just a rigid. This saw is huge and takes up a lot of space in my shop which is only 24'x24'.
What do you guys think?

That's a nice looking slider and with a little TLC to recondition it, it will be a fine addition to your shop. Doing that kind of reconditioning is normal for any kind of older gear. Because the slider wagon is "plain" compared to more contemporary machines, you'll also want to devise some work-holding accommodations for cross-cutting. I do see it has an outrigger support, so hopefully the outrigger is there to use with the machine...it's kinda important!

There is a small learning curve when moving to a slider, but you're in a good position given you haven't been using a traditional North American design saw constantly, day-in, day-out. You want to do anything and everything you can with your workpiece on the wagon (preferably clamped) which ups the safety factor by a magnitude (no hands near the blade) and also ups the precision and repeatability. Lots of us use sliders these days, so there are plenty of folks to help with questions and ideas.

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Originally Posted by Jim Becker

I do see it has an outrigger support, so hopefully the outrigger is there to use with the machine...it's kinda important!

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The last picture shows the full setup. So the outrigger and table assembly are intact. Sorry for the poor picture taking. It even has the guard, but looks to have been dropped sometime and is no longer usable.

Wow, that would ruin my shop (which is a little smaller than yours). Mine is a bench centered shop with the table saw slid to the right till it is against the wall.

Not sure what your Rigid saw is like but something in the middle might serve better.

I got very lucky and bought one a year ago that was exactly like it. If I remember, I paid $500 or 550 for it, but at the time I didn't even know if it ran (it did). The table had been used to store who knows what on it, and was more badly pitted than yours. I sanded the surface rust off and the pits did not hurt anything but the looks.

That Beisemeyer fence is a great addition, and optional. Is the saw single phase or three phase? The bearings for the wagon are simplicity itself, as is the way they adjust. Google Mini Max SC3, and you can find all the specs, as well as the owners manual. The steel slider is a bit more difficult to put jigs on, since there is no slot in it. You can overcome this by threading a couple holes in it to attach jigs with. Be sure not to put them in a location that interferes with the slider function. OR, you could use HD Mag Locks for temporary use, but that would get old.

Yours looks like it is actually in very good condition and is about 20 years old. If I remember, they switched to an aluminum slider about 1999-2000, and at first it was an option.

PS: Hint. If it happens to be missing the rod that holds the arbor while you remove the blade....I found that it is 6MM, which is just under 1/4". The 2' 1/4" steel rod that HD sells is not really 1/4", it is the closest metric equivalent, which just happens to be 6MM. Worked for me. ;)

I had planned to keep mine, but life intervened and I sold it for $1300, to the first guy who called. There is a thread with pics here somewhere.

Brian

I both envy, but do not envy, your position. Buying things from friends has always been at the very bottom of the list of my things I want to do.

I think the $1500 range may about correct, only because of it's age, and what can be had for $2500-$3000,( We're talking older Oliver's here.) and even though it may be a little more than I would pay, probably about $1200, the extra $$$$ is not worth losing friends over.
I would start by basically telling them that the machine does need work. It's obsolete, and parts are no longer available for it new. You would have to source any parts used on eBay, craigslist, user groups,etc. You're on your own to fix it.
The upside is that I remember when they came out, and they were pretty stout, robust, little machines ,in their day. That all of the essential parts are there and doesn't appear to need any weld repairs, is a big plus.

Bottom line is that if works, and you have to do very little to it to make it usable, you won't find a better machine new for $1500.00.

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Originally Posted by Brian Freeman

The last picture shows the full setup. So the outrigger and table assembly are intact. Sorry for the poor picture taking. It even has the guard, but looks to have been dropped sometime and is no longer usable.

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Ah, sorry...I completely missed the outrigger in the last photo for some reason. Thanks for the heads-up!

I bought and fixed up a SC2 mini max about 6-8 months ago. They are great saws. This was the first Minimax product that I had seen and I was blown away by all the adjustment and build quality. I would buy it if you have the room. You get to skip one step on the upgrade ladder. (cabinet saw ) Good luck, Mike.

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Originally Posted by Mike Cutler

Brian

I both envy, but do not envy, your position. Buying things from friends has always been at the very bottom of the list of my things I want to do.

I think the $1500 range may about correct, only because of it's age, and what can be had for $2500-$3000,( We're talking older Oliver's here.) and even though it may be a little more than I would pay, probably about $1200, the extra $$$$ is not worth losing friends over.
I would start by basically telling them that the machine does need work. It's obsolete, and parts are no longer available for it new. You would have to source any parts used on eBay, craigslist, user groups,etc. You're on your own to fix it.
The upside is that I remember when they came out, and they were pretty stout, robust, little machines ,in their day. That all of the essential parts are there and doesn't appear to need any weld repairs, is a big plus.

Bottom line is that if works, and you have to do very little to it to make it usable, you won't find a better machine new for $1500.00.

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Mike,
Luckily for me the friend gave me the heads up. His grandmother is the one I am dealing with and she has literally no idea the value. She has repeatedly told me that she does not care, and seems to want to move on with her life and be rid of his things, which in a way is understandable. I just want to treat her fairly.
Also, thanks for the heads up on the info for parts. I had not thought of parts not being available.
Brian

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Originally Posted by Tom Bender

Wow, that would ruin my shop (which is a little smaller than yours). Mine is a bench centered shop with the table saw slid to the right till it is against the wall.

Not sure what your Rigid saw is like but something in the middle might serve better.

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Tom,
I think we agree on that. It literally is taking up a ton a real estate. After looking on here and a couple other places, I figured it was a once in a lifetime chance of ever getting anything like this. Needless to say the Rigid is just going to be pushed to the side just in case.
Brian

I would offer $1000 and hope to settle less than $1500.

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Originally Posted by Rick Potter

That Beisemeyer fence is a great addition, and optional. Is the saw single phase or three phase? The bearings for the wagon are simplicity itself, as is the way they adjust. Google Mini Max SC3, and you can find all the specs, as well as the owners manual. The steel slider is a bit more difficult to put jigs on, since there is no slot in it. You can overcome this by threading a couple holes in it to attach jigs with. Be sure not to put them in a location that interferes with the slider function. OR, you could use HD Mag Locks for temporary use, but that would get old.

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The saw is single phase 220V.

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Originally Posted by Rick Potter

PS: Hint. If it happens to be missing the rod that holds the arbor while you remove the blade....I found that it is 6MM, which is just under 1/4". The 2' 1/4" steel rod that HD sells is not really 1/4", it is the closest metric equivalent, which just happens to be 6MM. Worked for me. ;)

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I believe everything is there, but I really do not know. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks Everyone

A grand is what I would offer. This is a lot of saw even with it's age. Make the room for it in your shop. The Euro machines are normally built vey stout so parts do not wear out much. And if there are repairs needed, it would be a great learning experience in machine maintenance and lots of folks on this site to help out.