Just bought a Tormek Woodturners Kit

Well, all but the cover and the tool rest that I already had.

After reading the book and watching the DVD from the TNT-300 Woodturner's Instruction Kit, I set out to replicate the spindle gouge bevel and side grind that was demonstrated on the DVD. I set the SVD-185 jig to 2, used the 55mm "P' setting and aligned the TTS-100 to the wheel using the "B" hole. Should have given me a 30 degree bevel and "sloped" shoulders that I saw in the DVD demo.

Alas, I got the 30 degree bevel, but not much in the way of a side grind. The end result certainly looks nothing like the spindle gouge that was used in the demo at those settings. The tool feels considerably harder to use since the edges (shoulders, for lack of a better term) are broad and abrupt. It is very sharp, though.

I think I'm missing something.

Without seeing pics, it's hard to say, but is it possible that you might not have spent enough time grinding the sides? I know when I've tried to grind swept wings on new gouges, I've spent a lot more time grinding the sides than the tip.

Agree with Harlan, my experience - set the grindstone to 220 grit and spend some time (considerable amount of time) on the sides (wings) of the tool to get the edge your looking for. I am following Jeff Farris' advice, that is to get another tool if I plan on a major change to the tool's edge. I would then use a 1725 rpm grinder (which I haven't got yet) for quicker steel removal before going to the Tormek wheel for final sharpening. Just my thoughts here.

Paul

Bob - photos would be nice of the edge that you want and the edge you have created. Should help in troubleshooting any problem you are experiencing.

Bob,

You've already received some good advice re: the possibility that you haven't ground enough material from the sides.

If that is a new SVD-185 that you're using (and it sounds like it is), please see this announcement:

http://www.tormek.com/en/jigs/svd180/svd185_arrow.php

Call us at 1-800-586-7635 from 9am - 5pm CST and we'll arrange to send you an indicator that you can stick on in the correct position, if you need it.

Either way, Steve is right. A picture would go a long way toward helping us diagnose the issue.


Paul,

When you get that 1725 rpm dry grinder, are you planning to outfit it with the BGM-100 Bench Grinder Mount?

Thanks to all. I just got off the phone with Jeff. He confirmed that I did not spend enough time on the sides and he also suggested (very diplomatically) that I go to a 45 degree profile given that I have only been at this turning stuff for a week or so. Sounds good to me.

I think I'll go by Woodcraft and get one of those kits for my slow speed bench grinder.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob Borzelleri

I think I'll go by Woodcraft and get one of those kits for my slow speed bench grinder.

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Bob, adding a BGM-100 to your arsenal is a great idea. If you've got the grinder and you've got the jig, it is the least expensive piece of the puzzle, and shaping tools is a much easier job on a dry grinder than it is on the Tormek. Just be careful. The same things I told you on the phone still apply (grind the sides individually, then blend it all together in a smooth stroke), but it happens a lot faster and mistakes are more catastrophic.

One more thing that I didn't mention and is easily overlooked. When you're shaping a tool, you will naturally take quite a bit of material off the tip of the tool. What is easily overlooked about this truth is that as you are grinding, you're changing the tool protrusion from the jig. Check and readjust periodically as you're working on the shape.

When you get it ground, Bob, remember your ABC's. Anchor (tool on the tool rest) Bevel (back of the bevel on the stock) Cut (raise the tool in an arc so that the edge engages with the bevel rubbing).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Farris

Bob, adding a BGM-100 to your arsenal is a great idea. If you've got the grinder and you've got the jig, it is the least expensive piece of the puzzle, and shaping tools is a much easier job on a dry grinder than it is on the Tormek. Just be careful. The same things I told you on the phone still apply (grind the sides individually, then blend it all together in a smooth stroke), but it happens a lot faster and mistakes are more catastrophic.

One more thing that I didn't mention and is easily overlooked. When you're shaping a tool, you will naturally take quite a bit of material off the tip of the tool. What is easily overlooked about this truth is that as you are grinding, you're changing the tool protrusion from the jig. Check and readjust periodically as you're working on the shape.

When you get it ground, Bob, remember your ABC's. Anchor (tool on the tool rest) Bevel (back of the bevel on the stock) Cut (raise the tool in an arc so that the edge engages with the bevel rubbing).

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Jeff...

Thanks for the advice. I probably failed to mention this point so I'll say it here. In both chisel sharpening as well as the turning tools I have most recently been getting used to, there is no question that the degree of sharpness I have attained repeatedly with the Tormek is just short of amazing. I firmly believe that working with tools that have moved beyond their potential (as in losing their "edge") is both frustrating and unsafe and having the Tormek sitting nearby to briefly touch up the edge is well worth the cost.

Now if I can only figure out how to clean the metal filings off the magnet in the water trough with out feeling like I'm putting toothpaste back in the tube... :rolleyes:

...Bob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob Borzelleri

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Now if I can only figure out how to clean the metal filings off the magnet in the water trough with out feeling like I'm putting toothpaste back in the tube... :rolleyes:

...Bob

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That's easy. Take some duct tape and put the magnet on the outside of the water tray instead of in it. The metal filings all collect right where the magnet is and wipe off easily.

I place mine on the inside vertical wall of the water trough, just about in line with where the front edge of the grindstone enters the water. If you put it on the bottom, it will grab the frame every time you try to take the water tray off.

Jeff - Yes I do intend to outfit the grinder with the BGM-100 mount. Am considering the Delta BG.

Paul

Yes, the BGM is a worthwhile addition, as is standardising your bevel geometries across similar tools where appropriate to speed setup.