Shaptons: Side Sharpening w/Sharp Skate vs. Veritas Mk II Honing Guide
Does anyone here use Garrelson Stanley's Sharp Skate with Shaptons?
I've been following another thread on fighting stiction and one recommendation was to use side sharpening.
I've used my Mk II with my waterstones but recently picked up some Shaptons and had stiction issues. I tried them since reading Derek's post but also wonder what those who have the Sharp Skate think of it.
For background, I sharpen everything from a 1/8" LN chisel to a 2-3/8 LV A-1 (BU) plane blade.
I'd sure like to learn all I can from my fellow Creekers!
I'm not sure it makes a difference...
When you have a series of scratches that are smaller than the woodfiber, it should be sharp enough to cut. The idea is to approach a "zero radius" where the back of the steel and front bevel meet. In other words, sideways or frontways - you're trying to get the included angle at the edge near the size of the steel molecule in the blade at the front.
If the grain of the steel is small enough, you can get down to that size by polishing.
I don't suppose the steel grains are oriented, more likely they're homogenous.
The reason I sharpen following the long axis of any blade is to keep from laying furrows into the Shapton stones. Note the Lee-Nielsen videos where Deneb is only pulling the bevel towards him. I suspect this is to keep from digging into the surface.
Perhaps the reason Odate likes this direction is that any micro-serration (teeth) will form in parallel with the tool edge, and stay in the groove desired. I suspect that at the level of polish you describe it amounts to no difference.
If the sideways motion is faster, and doesn't score the stone - why not try it?
If you find you blade "skating" sideways out of the groove, try the other method.
Lastly, the Shapton stones cut best when flat. Lap them regularly
Ron Hock has forgotten more than I will ever know about sharpening steel