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Twists, cups, bows, and crooks--the four typical warps of wood, need a plane to "hog" off a lot of wood in the initial shaping. I bought a scrub plane (and it works great), but I tend to use a #5 or #6 much more often to accomplish that task. I keep a couple planes with camber and they work quickly. Once I prepare for jointing, I'll use a different #6 or an #8, depending on the length of the wood. As Patrick just said above, there's so many ways to arrive....
There is more than one way to prepare stock, but some are quite clumsy.
The No. 62 plane, like 60, 61, 63 etc. was designed and marketed as a low angle block plane. It was made for planing endgrain where two hands are helpful because the surface is large or the timber is hard or both. I can't imagine a serious worker using this plane with a toothing iron.
The traditional tool is a plane in the the 14-18 inch range with a double iron. A wooden jack plane is more comfortable to use and less tiring. It does take some skill.
FWIW I usually rough with a #5, and sometimes with a #6. In either case they have substantially cambered irons (6" and 10" radius respectively IIRC). In other words, exactly what Warren suggests.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Mickley
I also have a scrub but it sees less than the two bench planes.
You don't leave the toothed pattern. It is part of the intermediate steps. After using it, you plane it smooth. The reason for the toothing iron in this case is that it allows quick stock removal without tear-out. It leaves a raked finish, but then you take down the rough finish with a jointer and smoother. The ridges easily plane off and you're back to a smooth finish, but avoided the tear-out getting there.Quote:
Originally Posted by steven c newman
I usually prefer this..
Attachment 363357
Set up the same as C. Schwarz does..
Attachment 363358
Nice little radius. Then the #6c, then the smoother...done.