I found scrapers

I normally do everything with power tools, and after my last woodcraft trip I came back with a 3 pack of scrapers and a wet stone 800/4000 grit. I found that besides the burn I got from the scrapers I love them. Also I have been in the dark about keeping tools sharp. I sharpened my chisels and one of my planes I recently got and sharp tools are amazing. I hated doing small things with chisels before but now it is a pleasure. I was just not aware the difference between how sharp they come from the store and really being sharp. I know that this should have been a no duh type of thing but to me it was surprising. I think I am going to buy another stone soon, the 1200/8000 stone and a 250 grit to get the knicks out.

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Originally Posted by Shawn Stennett

I hated doing small things with chisels before but now it is a pleasure. I was just not aware the difference between how sharp they come from the store and really being sharp.

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Once you have learned the real value of sharpness you can only get better from here on.:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Shawn Stennett

I have been in the dark about keeping tools sharp. I sharpened my chisels and one of my planes I recently got and sharp tools are amazing. I hated doing small things with chisels before but now it is a pleasure. I was just not aware the difference between how sharp they come from the store and really being sharp. I know that this should have been a no duh type of thing but to me it was surprising. I think I am going to buy another stone soon, the 1200/8000 stone and a 250 grit to get the knicks out.

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The big surprise awaiting you is that a few months from now, you will think what you call sharp now is a bit dull.

Sharpness is a moving target. As your sharpening skill improves, so will the edge on your tools.

jim

I agree with Jim - but I found it also frustrating to chase the elusive "Ultimate sharp" which I find is like golf in that perfection is not acheived. Now, I don't worry about that term anymore in that if they do what I need, it's good enough.

Interesting how "what I need" has now increased and therefore, the bar of sharpness. The minimum standard is that they must shave hair, but unfortunately, the area above my wrist rarely has test material anymore.

Congratulations Shawn - handtools are a pleasure when they are sharp, and a curse when they are dull. You've now added a whole new dimension to your hobby.

What grit do you guys go to? I knew that I needed to start to sharpen my chisels after a while but I thoughtthey came sharp, it is now sort of a joke. I had to take a little off of a face frame to smooth it down to the top edge last night of a large counter so I went at it with my new scraper, so much faster than sanding and so much more enjoyable.

Scrapers are the most amazingly simple tool. I keep a few with varying thickness and edges. Very handy.

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Originally Posted by Shawn Stennett

What grit do you guys go to?

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I don't have an 8,000 stone, only up to 4,000 (Norton). From the Norton stone I use wet/dry sandpaper stuck to glass, using a sequence of 1,000, 1,500, and 2,000. I have the sequence of grits always glued to a piece of glass in order, so it's pretty quick. The sandpaper lasts a long time before it needs to be replaced.

Then I use a leather strop with green honing compound, which is glued to a flat piece of wood.

I just couldn't justify spending $80-ish on a finer stone when the current system works well, but I'm sure others love their 8,000 stones....

Jim

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Originally Posted by Shawn Stennett

I found that besides the burn I got from the scrapers ...

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I haven't tried these tricks, but others have said that you can protect against burning by either wrapping your thumb and finger tips in that funny plastic-ace-bandagy wrap used instead of adhesive tape to hold gauze on, or using one of the flat plastic fridge magnets that are often given away as advertising freebies.

No, really. You can adjust the curve, keeps fingers from being toasted, etc.

I am sure that alot of it is just from doing something new, but I have seen holders for sale before and haven't thought about wrapping my fingers. I know that there are different angles for planes and such (I don't know what angle is used for what yet) what different angles do you use, how does it change the cut and more about different thicknesses as well please.

Sand paper seems to be the cheapest route. Glued to a piece of float glass, marble or granite pieces (find them cheap as cast offs) from cabinet shops? Even a good flat board. I do have water stones 80, 250, 1000, 4000, 6000 thanks to a generous cousin :)

Things I've learned so far...

Primary bevels are usually 25 degrees like / once its set you hardly have to do it again for a long time.

Add a 30 degree micro bevel a little sharp strip at the front of the 25 degree. The plane or chisel starts to dull just resharpen the micro bevel.

Lap the back of the plane iron or chisel so its shiny with no scratch marks mirror polish is the goal and takes a while.

If you use a honing guide make a board with stops for your most used angles for plane and chisel angles. It sure beats a ruler and a lot faster.

The ruler trick for a micro bevel on the back of the plane iron (not chisels) is cool :)

Sandpaper will eat finger tips!

The debate over hand sharpening vs honing guides and water and oil stones or sand paper is endless. Do what ever works for you.

This is what I got to useas a guide, I know where there is some scrap granite.....................ummm.


http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/03A21_230.jpg

I use that same guide - used to do it by hand, but the guide gives me more consistency and I belive that is the key. It also doesn't take any appreciable time at all.

You need to make yourself a "stop board" which is simply a stop at various distances from the edge. Then with the blade in your guide, extend the blade to the stops from the front edge of the hone which gives you the same angle every time.

25 degrees is 2 1/8" from the edge to the front of the guide.
30 degrees is 1 9/16"
35 degrees is 1 3/16"
40 degrees is 13/16"

Lie-Nielsen says that when using chisels in the lower part of the guide, subtract 5 degrees from the stop.

Thanks Don, what do you use the different angles for?

Microbevels. If the (plane) blade is ground at 25 degrees, I put it in the hone and set it at 30 degrees and then run it on a 1000 grit stone five or six times, then the same on a 6000 grit stone - it's done and you can clearly see that what you've done. I've been very happy with the results and it's quick and easy to do.

I can put a microbevel on by hand, but where the guide has come in handy for me is repetativeness. When the microbevel gets too large from doing it numerous times - it's simply time to regrind the bevel (A grinder or about 100 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

There are many others here who have sharpening down to much more of science than me, but I think that it's good to find a method that works for you and stick with it (advise from a knowledgeable friend of mine). You'll get better at it as opposed to switching methods and constantly fighting the learning curve. My .02 anyway.