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So I finished my wife's project and tomorrow I get to open the box and start unpacking and prepping my new Laguna 24-36 lathe.
The manual recommends cleaning all the packing grease with WD40 and then using a Teflon based lubricant/protection.
I was thinking of using this
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....L._SL1500_.jpg
I use dry lubricant a lot. One caution - if you lube or wax the lathe bed it is harder to keep the banjo and tailstock from slipping. Graeme Priddle recommends setting a new lathe out in the rain for a few days to built up a nice, gripping surface of rust. I think he is kidding but the point is valid - a slippery lathe bed is not only an annoyance but can be a real danger.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisA Edwards
I clean my lathe bed with a card scraper, nothing else. Other cast iron surfaces (table saw, bandsaw, etc) get cleaned and lubricated.
(PS, I deleted your other thread - I replied there buut didn't even notice where it was posted!)
JKJ
WD-40 has a dry silicon lubricant that works well. That's what I used on my 18-36. The Laguga lathes have steel beds instead of cast iron, but will still rust just the same.
I use talc on the lathe bed. Once in awhile I'll soak the bed with WD40 overnight. Then wipe off excess and reapply the talc. A little talc on a chalk board erasure goes a long way.
The talc appears to be a good way to protect cast iron. I have a Robland sliding table for my table saw and they recommend applying talcum powder with a chalk board eraser. They say it fills the tiny pores in the cast iron and protects from rust. For those wanting to try this, it's recommended to use true talc and not use baby powder which may contain other things such as corn starch. I bought this talc, marketed to billiards players: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1Quote:
Originally Posted by tom lucas
BTW, some woodworkers warn against using anything with silicone around wood, to the point of not even allowing it in the shop. Apparently one tiny droplet can ruin a finish and require drastic measures to fix! I do use silicone in the shop but not in the wood area. (My piano turner also warns about getting silicone around pianos. Some furniture polishes contain silicone to give a "wet" look.}
JKJ
I always use boshield t-11. It's great for rust prevention and doesn't make stuff slippery.
I tried the Boshield, and it was too sticky for me, almost greasy, unless they have changed the formula. One product I do use in the shop is Glide Coat. Works great on the bandsaw when sliding heavy wet pieces across the top, and it does add some protection. My old 3520A PM had a nice black patina to the bed when I sold it. I think the biggest problem with rust and oxidation is if it starts to pit. If you turn green wood a lot and don't wipe the bed off once in a while, it could happen. Talk powder is an old trick for the older cast iron tablesaw tops, jointers, planers, etc. Some slide, and some protection.
robo hippy
Unless you know you have issues with rust, I wouldn't put anything on it. Iron - like a cast iron skillet - develops a decent enough protective patina in many cases. YMMV, but I wax mine (which resides in my basement) probably yearly, and turn a lot of green wood. My 18-36 hasn't rusted yet. Just be persnickety about brushing and vaccuuming it clean after each use.
I put nothing on my ways. It'll get wet when turning green wood but I quickly wipe it off. It has some rust stains on it but they aren't impacting it's performance and where it is the head/ tail stock are never moved to that part of the lathe. If it's kept in humid conditions that would be different, then I would protect it. To clean it I use IPA (alcohol). It has almost no lingering smell and dries.
Yep, agree completely with this, although it's probably a bit extreme not even to allow it in the home shop. :) But silicone contamination of the surface of the workpiece is a big problem when applying many types of finish, especially lacquers and urethane-based finishes. The most common result is the dreaded fish eye finish. The silicone, even in tiny amounts, reduces surface tension, preventing uniform adhesion when the finish is applied.Quote:
Originally Posted by John K Jordan
Here's an old SMC thread that mentions it. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....shing-question
Here's a short online article from a few years ago discussing tips for dealing with it, once contamination occurs.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodworking-tips-1603mar/silicone-contamination-finishing-tip.html
On all the lathes I have owned, as well as the other stationary tools in my shop, I use Johnson’s Paste Wax regularly. I have never had issues of slippage of the tailstock or banjo, and it does an excellent job of protecting the ways, as well as the cast iron tops of my other tools. It is my understanding it contains no silicones. I have been doing this for at least 15 years and my tools show no sign of rust or discoloration.
I too have been using it for years. Works great, is cheap, and easy to find. I mainly apply it when I know I won't be using the tool for a few weeks or longer, and I just leave it on without buffing.Quote:
Originally Posted by John Keeton
To get the factory rust preventative coating off I just used diesel fuel and a rag , rubbed it dry and then used minwax cause it oil based ,no issues .
Just unpacked my 18-36 and cleaned up the packing grease with mineral spirits. Paste wax on all my cast iron surfaces including the lathe. Works great and is inexpensive. Have fun.
I use the Johnson's paste wax on all my other table surfaces, so I think that's what I'll use.
That was my plan initially until I read the Laguna manual where it recommended a Teflon Lubrication protectant.
Thanks