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I love being able to pull open a blast gate and turn the DC on at the same time. PSI’s multigate system has worked well for a few years but the switch box went out the other day now it won’t turn off the DC (V3000). Reading the reviews on Amazon it appears this particular controller is a bit of a “hope you are lucky” product. I can’t seem to find any similar product that controls the DC via blast gate switches. Anybody know of an alternative to this unit that works like the Long Ranger?
Hi Bernie,
Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but I had been in touch with the folks at www.ecogate.com a while back. They have different offerings, you might contact them and see if they have something that fits your shop, though you may also get sticker shock.
Ned
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernie Kopfer
Ned you are right. At about $75 per replacement for the PSI Long Ranger I’ll go that route for now. But I was hoping there was a better alternative.there are more reliable on/off controllers with remotes and that is the other alternative. As a matter of fact I found the Oneida control box and remote in the back of the DC closet. Might use it if I have to, but I know I’ll misplace the r3mote!
Ive used the long ranger for years. I clip a fob to my shop vest and it’s no bother at all to turn on the dust collector.
Check out the various X10 systems... I put a microswitch on dust gates so when they close the X10 PF284 sends a signal on the power line and a heavy duty switch (do not know X10 number, it is in shop & not there now)... turns on / off dust collector.. been using it about 25 years now..
go to www.X10.com
I've had the remote for my DC clipped to my shop apron for 5 years and it's never gotten lost, has always worked, and is still on its first battery. I conceived all manner of control schemes, but this one is so simple and is always at hand. I leave the blast gate open if I'm going to use the same machine again and it's a lot easier to turn off the blower with the remote than by closing a blast gate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernie Kopfer
Wearing a shop apron in the summer around here is unpleasant. And when turning …..Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Pratt
BOught a new controller and all is well again. Noticed that Nowhere on the box or instruction sheet is any sort of warranty mentioned. Definitely at the mercy of whatever PSI decides if you have a problem.
If you're somewhat comfortable with electricty, people have "rolled their own". Buy a remote light controller, they run about $15 and up on Amazon. That light controller does not control the dust collector, it switches the coil on a contactor. Be sure the coil on the contactor is 120 volts, not 24 volts as it common. The remote is probably switching less than 1 amp rather than 10+ amps that the dust collector draws. The contactor can be as beefy as it needs to be. If the remote unit dies you just replace the remote. I'd think a decent quality motor contactor will last a very long time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernie Kopfer
Edit: I was looking at this contactor: https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-C25BNB2...ps%2C46&sr=8-8
Here are the specs:
Eaton C25BNB230A Compact Definite Purpose Contactor, 30A Inductive Current Rating, 2 Max HP Rating at 115V, 5 Max HP Rating at 230V, 120VAC Coil Voltage
Insulation Voltage: 690V; Magnet Coil Class F, 155°C
Operating temperature: -25 to +70°C; Coil Power VAC: 2.2kW
Coil Terminals: Screw with Quick Connect; Coil Voltage AC Max: 120V
Coil Voltage AC Min: 110V; Contacts: DPST-NO-DB
Horsepower: 3hp; Line Voltage: 230V; CE Compliant, CSA certified, UL Recognized
Coil power VAC: 2.2 kW. Doesn't that seem awfully high?
I looked at other contactors and the coil on those draw 7-8 watts, about like a "60 watt" LED bulb. An inexpensive remote should switch that comfortably.
I realize it has been a while since you responded to this thread but curious if you could provide some model numbers and maybe photos of the setup you are using? Sure sounds reliable. I have all my dust gates wired with low voltage microswitches. I was using the Long Ranger system and they no longer work nor sell the controller module.
With Chrirstmas coming up now is the time to look for remote holiday light switches at all the big box stores and and online. Use them to control a contactor that can handle the load. Just make sure it has a 120 volt coil.
Bill D
I thought I was one of the lucky ones-had one for about two years with no trouble on a 2 hp DC and really liked it.
But as a caution to anyone else out there with one of the PSI LR units: While the sticker says 'not to exceed 3hp' (which I take as usable with 3 hp), the cord is only 14 ga. and it fried the third time I had it hooked up to an Oneida 3 hp cyclone. With plenty of heat and stink in the switch box. So I too may be looking into rolling my own switch controller.
Best,
Chris