I have never used Wenge, but I intend to make some small boxes to hold toothpicks.
For some other wood, I am starting with BLO or Danish Oil, letting it dry then finishing it with amber shellac.
Does this sound reasonable for the Wenge as well?
Printable View
I have never used Wenge, but I intend to make some small boxes to hold toothpicks.
For some other wood, I am starting with BLO or Danish Oil, letting it dry then finishing it with amber shellac.
Does this sound reasonable for the Wenge as well?
I use solvent varnish on wenge - usually wipe-on.
Will a solvent varnish hold an odor inside a closed box?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton
The amount of varnish in a wiped-on coat is tiny, so I’d guess you can’t smell it. If you’re really paranoid, you could put finish only on the outside of the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak
For what its worth, I made one project out of wenge 20 years ago. I put wipe on varnish on it and it still looks good. It got almost black, if that is what you are looking for.
I don't claim to be an expert, but I have always heard that putting a soft film like danish oil under another harder finish is a mistake.
I am only adding the oil because it really improves the look of some wood; for example, walnut. Does danish oil leave any film? How about BLO?Quote:
Originally Posted by Wade Lippman
I will have to take a look at a wipe on varnish, I have never used one.
Andrew...wenge will take a finish so take the scrap, sand it and try out various things to see what you like the best. Any kind of oil/oil-based product is going to "warm up" the look. Don't experiment on your actual project.... ;)
BTW, be very careful with splinters...they can be nasty.
I've used Danish Oil, Tried and True Original Finish(Polymerized Linseed Oil and Beeswax) and General Finishes Bowl Finish on Wenge. The first two will darken the Wenge somewhat but leaves a nice finish to the touch. The General Finishes Bowl Finish leaves a slightly higher sheen and also seems to be a harder finish. My understanding is that all are food safe after curing.
If using the Tried and True, try sanding to a very high grit(1000 or more) and you will find it absorbs a little less and therefore doesn't bleed back from the pores as much. Also leaves a very smooth feel to the finish.
Jim
Danish oil doesn't have an actual meaning, but it is usually a mix of oil and varnish that leaves a soft film. Blo leaves less of a film if used lightly, so it would be better. Solvent based varnish should have the same effect as either of them, but leaves a hard film. You can then put shellac over that if you want, though it seems unnecessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak
The David oil I have is Watco. I would need to check the can to see what it's says, can't do that first a week.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wade Lippman
I would use De-waxed Garnet shellac. fast dry, easily repaired, food-safe, hard finish, colorfast (never yellows) pops the grain and enhances the color.