I have seen a number of sources suggesting Osmo as a finish for bowls
Can anyone please advise on which Osmo product to use and how thoughts on how good it is
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I have seen a number of sources suggesting Osmo as a finish for bowls
Can anyone please advise on which Osmo product to use and how thoughts on how good it is
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like this one
Osmo Polyx. I used the exact same sku George suggests. It's not cheap, but a little goes a long way. It's actually perfect for bowls for me. Applies like an oil. Wipe on wipe off. One coat is probably enough. 2 definitely. Dries fairly hard. Cannot attest to durability, tho.
I’Ve used Osmo TopOil - same process - rub on a very thin coat, two coats over two days. It’s held up extremely well to daily use for four years on the several pieces I’ve used it on.
I often use Osmo Polyx - easy to apply, looks and feels great. BUT applied on a dark, open-pored wood like wenge, it fills in the grain unattractively. I have mixed up a spoonful or two with a few drops of black Mixol to solve that problem, like on the base and top button of this piece - probably any oil- or alcohol-based pigment would work.
Attachment 494201
Perhaps Rubios 5% smoke might work betterQuote:
Originally Posted by James Morgan
Rubio smoke reacts with tannins in the wood & is designed for use with oak. Might or might not work with dark pigmented woods. Besides, it's expensive. Why buy another product when it is not difficult to have what you already have?
Re: 2 coats - I read somewhere (I can't remember where) that two coats of Osmo was unnecessary. First coat chemically binds to the wood fibers, and second coat will not bind to the product itself. Same thing for Rubio Monocoat as I understand it.
Osmo recommends up to three coats of TopOil - with a full 8 - 10 hours of dry time between coats. Two coats seems to work fine and hasn’t been renewed on frequently used kitchen bowls in a couple years…Top Oil is a plant-based, high solids wax/oil blend that is fully food safe according to the manufacturer. It’s designed for kitchen use on countertops, butcher blocks, etc. Polyx is designed for use on floors - different formulation.
Osmo recommends 2 coats - not the same formulation as Rubio Monocoat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Pasqualone
Here's a good article about finishing with Osmo Polyx. I've been using Osmo for more and more projects, and generally follow the advice in this article to use the Osmo extra thin as a first coat, followed by regular polyx in the sheen of your choice. https://gobywalnut.com/blogs/article...ear-extra-thin
I contacted Odie’s a while back and they told me that for turnings their product (Odie’s Oil) could be applied and immediately buffed as-in high friction polish method.No need to wait as in the directions for flatwork. I wonder if this would also be true for the Osmo products? Would the heat generated by friction polishing help soak the wax/oil into the wood and cure it at the same time?
Sure would be faster than waiting for curing overnight.
I really like Osmo Polyx and wet sand the first coat in with 600 wet or dry sandpaper. Same stuff you'd wet sand a car with. It makes the surface velvet smooth. I usually use two- three coats total. When I get a new can I put it in a Stop Loss bag. It never skims over inside the bag and since it takes so little the bag is great for dumping a little out at a time.
I have never tried to use it like a friction finish. Not sure if it would cure with friction or not.
So I contacted Osmo USA in SD and asked if Osmo poly could be applied while the wood is on the lathe and without waiting the requisite time before polishing could it be friction polished ; once and done? The answer was a “ yes that is ok, and will work” but I received the distinct impression that that method had not been company tried and fully approved.