Anyone ever tried Azak?
For the heck of it, I picked up a 3/4" strip the other day fits right in my miter slot.
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Anyone ever tried Azak?
For the heck of it, I picked up a 3/4" strip the other day fits right in my miter slot.
I use cheap cutting boards.
Haven't tried it for a miter slot runner. When used in construction it expands quite a bit in all directions when it gets hot, so it might get tight on you if your shop isn't conditioned. Let us know how it works out.
I use steel at least half of the time and always works best.
I use aluminum flat bar.
Wayne
I use leftover engineered hardwood flooring.
That sounds like a great idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Garson
I didn't know Azak expanded.
The flooring idea sounds good.
I used 3/8 X 3/4 steel bar filed to fit. I drilled holes and tapped them to attach the sled. If I were doing it again, I'd probably use aluminum, aluminum is softer so less risk of causing miter slot wear. I wax the steel bar periodically and it doesn't rub so I'm not too concerned about table slot wear.
Call me a quitter but I just buy Kreg or Rockler solid aluminum miter bars.
I've used HDPE wear strips, wood, aluminum (ordered from ENCO, now MSC,) and cold rolled steel.
I just discovered PVC exterior trim at Lowes. $20. for a 1X6 8ft long. It fits the miter slots on my Sawstop perfectly. I attach it with 5 min epoxy and it sticks like a ton of bricks. I have made a few jigs with it now, love it.
Got the idea from this guy: https://youtu.be/wY4yYF6JMRI
I made a featherboard as well and it works great, picture is attached.Attachment 395756
I have been using PVC material in my shop for a very long time. Lots of shop jigs and fixtures and my band saw slider below were made from 3/4" thick PVC sheet. I have also made shop shelves, stands, plaques and signs.
The band saw slider was made from PVC but the runner was made from Corian because the band saw slot is smaller than the standard 3/4". I think I will make some feather boards like Stan's, they look great.
Most commercial feather boards are $20. or more, yuck.
The 3/4" PVC is perfect for feather boards, again, it was not my idea, here's where I found it:
https://youtu.be/wY4yYF6JMRI
The oldest sleds I have that are still slop-less have Corian runners that have been on them since I made them in the early '80s. I don't use them often, but they have always been ready to go to work since I made them.
I have a lot of salvaged UHMW plastic sheets. Most of my sleds have it as runners.
Keith, could post the source for the 3/4” sheet? I have some of the board but haven’t seen the sheet material.Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Outten
Joe
Joe,
The only thing I can remember about the source for the 3/4" PVC sheet is that I bought several sheets from a company in Williamsburg. I can now purchase PVC from Norva Plastics in Norfolk Virginia, I am pretty friendly with the owner and occasionally he gives away drops from some of his large projects. The last load he gave me almost overloaded my 3/4 ton van, I will be using that PVC load for many years to come. I have the drops stored in my barn and one of my storage buildings and I use it for for so many things around my home and shop that it is everywhere.
I am building a sled now. I decided to use PVC. I picked up a 3/4 strip at Lowe’s. I ran it through the planer until I got a
perfect fit. My concern is wear. The stuff seems kind of soft. I guess time will tell.
Thread-jack -- Thanks Stan and Keith. I had used PVC board around the house but, never made the connection to using it in the shop. I have something in mind where this may be just the ticket.
How do you attach the UHMW to the sled? Thanks in advance.
I use red oak. It’s durable and the open grain holds some parifin wax that keeps it sliding smooooth.
Usually it is mounted with screws as many adhesives won't stick to UHMW.
hite oak for me. I have lots of it in the cut off bins. 2nd on the wax.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Luter
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