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Since my table saw bit the dust, and I'm low on funds, I've been eyeing my radial arm saw for ripping.
I must say that I do love using my Festool circular saw for anything I can come up with, but ripping with it is a bit slow.
Anyone out there really do any ripping with their RAS?
I did a bunch of ripping when I had a RAS and while it took some time to get set up it worked pretty good. I would not use the 90-degree setting when turning the saw but rather index the blade against the fence so that I knew that it was parallel. That gave me the best cuts but the table saw is still the tool of choice when available to you.
I agree that you should check your saw for proper alignment. Also make sure you use the splitter and run the blade down into the wooden table top so the teeth clear the bottom side of the board. Replace the normal fence with a continuous piece so you don't get any hang ups when pushing the board through the cut. It is extremely important to use push sticks to finish off the cut. Also don't stand in the path of any potential kick backs. I'm not sure if a blade with negative tooth rake is recommended when ripping. I know they are for cross cuts.
I did it but it was a little hairy and a pain switching it around. Bought a cheap little table saw for ripping. I've since bought a Uni-saw so it's much easier now. I'd use the Festool first, see if they make a better blade for ripping. Still use the RAS but just for cross cutting.
For many years my Craftsman RAS was the only woodworking saw I owned, so when I needed a board ripped, that's what I used. I never had a problem with kick back. Lucky, I guess. Proper saw alignment is very important, just like on a table saw. Many saws allow you to tip the blade guard down to act as a hold down for the board.
John
I think the RAS does just fine for ripping as long as you use it properly. I think all the bad rap on the RAS is due to operator error and the very human trait of never wanting to accept blame for anything. With that said, I'd never use it for a rip cut if I had access to a table saw. Like someone above said, best tool for the job.
I did it in the early days when that's all I had. Took longer to tune it up for a proper rip than it was worth. Even then, the accuracy was not as good as a mid-level table saw would give. Scary too, that blade right out in the open never made me comfortable. Hard to feed the last few inches of a board too. Never again. Don't get me wrong, my radial arm saw is the most used tool in my shop.... for crosscuts, just not for ripping.
Hit garage/yard sales or Craigs list for a cheap $100-$200 Used table saw. Even at that price, it will do a better safer and easier rip than the RAS. Then you can save up for a good saw.
See all of the above. I've done it for many years without a problem. Good alignment, good rip blade, hold downs (I used Board Buddies), and the splitter.
Bill
Three words, here (or is it two ?): anti-kickback pawls. Don't leave home/rip without 'em !
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K...6/P1050198.JPG
Critical ? I dunno. One more safety measure, though.
Personally, I won't rip on my RAS. But what happened to your TS? Unless an elephant sat on it what could go wrong other than a dead motor or maybe a bearing? I don't mean to sound harsh, but if you could find the funds to buy a Festool saw, you probably can afford to fix your TS. And you're going to want it again sooner or later anyway, so why not make it sooner, and safer.
I haven't yet needed to rip on my 14" dewalt RAS, but my crummy 10" (3hp:rolleyes:) craftsman RAS was used for ripping quite a bit. I've ripped sheet goods, 3/4 pine, and 2x material. Nothing major or highly critical, and I didn't have a single issue. EVER
I actually liked ripping on the RAS better than I did on my old contractor series table saw.
I say go for it.
I would rather play on the freeway. Seriously, using the RAS for ripping is probably one of the most dangerous things that I've ever done. The flying missile/wood that hit the garage door was the fastest thing in my garage. I think most people who post replies on this forum are very clever and have had a lot of experience. While they may state that it is a routine practice for them, it doesn't mean that it is safe for you. I'm sure that you've read the posts by now of people who state that they never use any of the safety devices on their table saw and still have all their organs and appendages. Ripping with a RAS requires a lot of forethought and planning. If you are proposing using the RAS for ripping and have not thought it out, I would say keep thinking and work out all the angles before you even start.
I have ripped thousands of feet of lumber on my Dewalt. I agree with the operator error comment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerome Hanby
AZCRAIG
The OP came here for guidance, so he's obviously not thinking about doing this thoughtlessly.
I've had kick back on my table saw, but I still use it.
I've almost broke my wrist more than once with a D handled drill, I still use big drills.
I've had my DP grab junk out from under the clamps, I still use the DP
I could go on about EVERY tool I own and talk about at least one close call.
It all boils down to operator awareness, make your self aware of what "said tool" can do if things get nasty, then plan for the worst and pray for the best.
And wear the right gear:cool:
That's exactly it, John.Quote:
Originally Posted by John TenEyck
The other day I was ripping on the TS (Dewalt 755) and it started smoking.
Sounds like the motor is fried.
I got the Festool circular saw, back when I was making $5K/week profit.....but as we know, the economy has taken a dump, and funds are tight.
Back in the late '50's all dad had was a Craftsman RAS. He used it for everything. He taught me to use it for everything. I taught my shop teacher how to use it for ripping accurately and safely. He had the attitude shared by some here--don't rip on it, it's too dangerous. I am in my 7th decade using a RAS. Sure, like all power tools, it is inherently dangerous. My first school shop had a drill press and a Wards RAS. Treat it right; use it right; it will do the job. The problem is more with the operator than the machine.
Before I graduated to woodworker from wood butcher I only had a RAS and I used it for everything. Other than it isn't near as handy as a tablesaw I did everything on it including ripping. The big drawback for me was the restriction on the size so cutting a sheet of plywood in half was -uuum--difficult.
Well, I just ripped my first piece of 16" wide purpleheart, in two, on the RAS. Went perfectly. Not a bit scary.
I can see doing a lot more of this on the RAS. Now I'm not in near the rush, to replace the table saw.
I hated ripping that nice piece of purpleheart....but I simply needed narrower stock for my application.
Thanks gang.
:cool: yeah buddy!Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Landwer
How long was it? I've never ripped anything less then 16" on mine. Not saying I wouldn't, just that I never have.
A Radial Arm Saw is an invaluable tool in my shop. I'll never be with out one if I have the choice.
The Purpleheart was 30" long, but the Yellowheart that followed, was 10 feet.
Sweet, so wheres the pics of this RAS?:D
Every thread deserves a picture
I do quite a bit of ripping on my 16" DeWalt GE, works great! Would be quite different if it didn't have a powerfeeder.......
Ed
I built my house with a 9" Craftsman RAS. I ripped #3 pine to size and used a molding head in the saw to cut all the millwork in the house. I later moved up to a Delta 33-267 that a friend sold me and added a RipStrate anti-kickback accessory to make ripping safer. I now use the RAS mostly for crosscuts and miters using a miter jig. I still occasionally use it for ripping.
I did once yrs ago on my Sears,never again.Yes I was paying attention,sell your festool get a good TS----Carroll
The RAS was the only saw I had for a decade or so. I ripped with it frequently with no complaints or close calls. I did change to a ripping blade when I had a lot of ripping to do.
Unfortunately for the radial arm saw, it’s versatility is also it’s vice. All stations should be kept in good calibration to get maximum precision out of it. For rip cuts, which can be done quite satisfactorily, checking the heel and toe alignment is really no different than the same procedure as done on the tablesaw. Strive for 0/0 readings while sweeping along the width of the sawblade with a dial indicator mounted in a simple jig. These things can be had for about $15 and should really be in the woodworker’s measurement tool arsenal. I like to use the in- rip position as that is the function I use the most for rip work, it also takes care of the crosscut heel/ toe calibration as well, so two jobs are done in one.
Attachment 241774
Infeed position.
Attachment 241775
Outfeed position.
Although reality says a couple of thou won't make any difference, strive to be accurate so it will hold longer.
Attachment 241776
- Beachside Hank
Do not use remaining fingers as push sticks.
Must say that while i did some ripping of 3/4in white deal on it, the De Walt RAS i had was very marginal for that sort of work. It was (a) only just powerful enough to get the job done it seemed (always on the point of bogging - maybe a dedicated rip blade would improve the situation, although the hook tooth could cause other issues (?)), and (b) alignment was hard to keep in adjustment (it seemed to get knocked out by the tiniest bump) which didn't help at all.
A more powerful saw would have been a lot better, but that would have needed a much better fence and a saw much more resistant to getting knocked out of alignment - or the risk of kickback would have been too much.
No doubt it can be done with a well tuned procedure and a lot of care not to bump or overfeed the thing, and a much better quality/higher spec saw would no doubt improve the situation but it's definitely not my tool of choice. I sold mine after doing only a few hours work on it.
A band saw might be another option....
I did a fair amont of ripping when I had a Radial Arm saw, just be careful with which end to feed the wood. I use to move the table boards to get the fence repositioned to gain more rip capacity.
I just have to say, everyone I know that had an accident on a radial arm saw was ripping. And accidents on radial arm saws are never small accidents.
Myself. Its not what the saw was designed for, its an incidental use that is used as a sales feature. I have a great radial arm saw, and a good one before this one, but I will rip on the tablesaw. This is just my opinion of course.
Larry
Hank,
Good info. Also thanks for your help on the DeWalt forum. Your pictures look like the 1400. I am getting a 1200 adjusted up.
Question, with a 8 1/2 or 9 inch blade do you think the 1200 can rip without the power issues others are noteing? I may do some occasional ripping or dado work in the rip position.
Thanks.
Dan
If I was in your shoes, I would table mount the tracksaw and rip away. You could make a simple t-square fence that clamped in place on to of a sheet of melamine.
[QUOTE=Dan T Jones;1984546]Hank,
Good info. Also thanks for your help on the DeWalt forum. Your pictures look like the 1400. I am getting a 1200 adjusted up.
Question, with a 8 1/2 or 9 inch blade do you think the 1200 can rip without the power issues others are noteing? I may do some occasional ripping or dado work in the rip position.
Thanks.
Dan, Mr. Sawdust recommended many years ago to use only the blade size that will just do the job. Many times I have found this wisdom to be true and valuable. For rip work I currently use the Freud 8300 series, 8” blade and have not only ripped to great accuracy, but have resawn with great precision on the radial arm saw as well. The same doctrine would be true for the tablesaw as well: eliminate harmonics and flutter from too large a blade. The tooth profile of triple chip grind gives a very smooth edge, ready for glueup and the thin kerf augments the smaller diameter such that no bogging down happens on a well- tuned machine.
- Beachside Hank
If you can't solve the problem, then change the problem.
Just don't get cocky. I used my Craftsman RAS (first stationary WW tool) to rip for months before having a big kickback - wood had a slight twist. No flesh damaged, but punched a hole in the garage drywall and even dented the sheathing and aluminum siding. Scared the heck out of me and I have never ripped on a RAS since. Much later, I realized that it was operator error and I probably could have ripped that piece successfully with enough safety aids, but by then I had my first tablesaw.
Good luck and be safe.
As was mentioned above, it's important to feed from the right (correct) direction. My uncle once fed a board from the wrong end on his RAS, and shot it into the end wall of his garage. Luckily he wasn't in the line of fire. That wasn't kickback. With all tools, such as the shaper, where it's possible to do it wrong, I have a mantra: feed TOWARD the carbide (while acknowledging that there are times when a climbing cut is appropriate--but never on a saw!)