Want to build a Canoe but clueless about boats

Hi guys and gals,

I've been browsing this section of the form for awhile and love all the boats people here are sharing. Made me really think about wanting to have a crack at it, only issue is I know NOTHING about boat building.

I'm not asking for someone to hold my hand and walk me through it step by step, but I'd really appreciate it if someone can point me in the right direction to start learning about boat building and what is required to be successful in building one.

Examples, what books or websites should I visit to start reading up and learning about it. How did you start off with boat building and how did you learn what you know today?

I would love to learn and think boat building would be just awesome to add to my skills.

As far as I'm concerned, the definitive book on Canoe building is Ted Moores & Merilyn Mohr's "Canoecraft". In my opinion, the book provides you with a very well rounded approach to design and construction of the strip type canoe. (20) years ago, I attended a class held for building a cedar strip canoe, enjoyed it and signed up for a follow up class in which you build your own canoe. There were (25) canoes and small boats built during this class. "Canoecraft " was the "anchor" for our building, I highly recommend it.
Mac

Thanks, found the book on amazon for $5 shipped and just placed my order.

Would still like to hear from others if you have more to share.

I built a strip canoe using the Canoecraft book. It was tons of fun, and I really want to build another, or maybe a kayak. I knew nothing about boat building, and really don't have any big wood working tools outside of a contractor table saw.

I see this was posted in Jan, have you made any progress?

Back in the 80's I was the same as you....knew nothing about building a canoe but decided (during the winter) to try one just for something different. I used 2 books as my guide...the first edition of this one..(I see it has been revised).. https://www.amazon.ca/Building-Secon.../dp/1565234839 and this one.. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/091...reative=330641 . Both books were very helpful in getting the project done. I still have and use the canoe today.....

I am building a Black Pearl designed by Bjorn Thomasson who has a building manual at http://www.thomassondesign.com/en/bu...uilding-manual
There is also http://oneoceankayaks.com/Shop.htm and search for North West Canoes.

Regards

Graham

Barry, our canoe looks beautiful. I did buy a book but never got around to reading it. had a couple to projects come up in between and now in the middle of building a new home and getting ready to sell my current, I won't have time to start on building a canoe any time soon. Maybe in another year or 2 I might get some time.

Gil Gilpatrick has a book out (Amazon has it for sure) that has his whole canoe building process broken down into smaller, bite-sized projects. Book has templates and patterns for several different types of canoes. He spells everything out pretty clearly. Lots of photos to try and make things clear. Each chapter starts out with a list of materials and tools needed for that chapter/sub-project. I've been dreaming of starting one of his canoes. Closing in on retirement so may need to clear out some of the garage and get started. Good luck on your canoe!

Before you make a final design selection, learn what to expect from the finished boat. Here are a few principals

1. A longer waterline makes a boat faster

2. Faster is the same as less work to paddle

3. A kayak paddle makes a canoe about three times as fast as a canoe paddle, I'll never look back

4. A narrow boat is faster but wants to tip over, but a stable paddler can be ok

5. In wind a boat with lots of rocker will be very difficult to steer straight (rocker is bow to stern rocking on a flat floor)

6. In whitewater a boat with no rocker will be difficult to steer

7. Any clear finish will require a lot of maintenance, and will have a shorter life than a painted boat

I saw a beautiful strip canoe on a lake I canoe on. Backrests and all. The freeboard when interior camping was just over 2 inches. Any wave or some wind and they would sink. Windy days they went nowhere, such a shame to miscalculate so much.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by William Fretwell

I saw a beautiful strip canoe on a lake I canoe on. Backrests and all. The freeboard when interior camping was just over 2 inches. Any wave or some wind and they would sink. Windy days they went nowhere, such a shame to miscalculate so much.

---

It sounds like he's seriously over loaded for the design's perimeters or just picked the wrong design to build for his purposes. The good thing is it's a opportunity to build another canoe that will meet his/her's requirements next time.
Mac

Canoecraft is an excellent book for canoe building, but also Nick Schade's "The Strip-Built Kayak" has a wealth of information regarding strip building. Even if building a canoe and not a kayak, it's a great resource- they are much the same, only one has a deck with a hole in the middle. :-)

Keep in mind that there are also other methods of construction- stitch-n-glue, lapstrake, and skin-on-frame are examples. Iaian Oughtred designed the MacGregor- a beautiful glued lap plywood decked canoe. Plans for the forms come with marking for the strakes, which makes it easier to lay out.

CLC makes a glued lapstrake canoe in kit or plans form http://www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/b...canoe-kit.html

Pygmy Boats makes the nicest classic-look canoe with stitch-n-glue construction in kit form. It's a real beauty and would be a quick build. https://www.pygmyboats.com/boats/taiga-canoe-kit.html

Guillemot Kayaks, owned by Nick Schade- author of the book I mentioned above- sells plans for a canoe: http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guil...r_tandem_canoe
It is a bit flat- best for lazy flatwater paddling.


I personally prefer cedar strip. It is not that hard- just build the forms and glue the strips up one at a time. My suggestion is get LOTS of clamps. Spring clamps work very well. Also the Irwin Quick-Grip clamps are great for this kind of project- easy to get on and off. They don't hold as tightly as f clamps, but they hold plenty for flexible strips.

Best of luck. I build wooden boats and sometimes teach classes in boatbuilding. Happy to assit with any questions.

Okay, if we're expanding into other construction types, I've admired Arch Davis designs in glued lapstrake (http://www.archdavisdesigns.com/). No canoes, but several "sorta traditional" designs: a peapod, skiffs, etc. I've got his Penobscott 14 on my wish list for a future project. I've gotten and watched his video on construction of the design and found it quite thorough, clear and understandable. And longish, too. He doesn't skip a lot. Not a cheap way to go, but you get what you pay for in this case.

Depending upon what type of water you want to be in, as an alternative to a canoe, I would suggest a look at www.adirondackguideboat.com. I did not, yet, build a boat, but do have a 15’ manuf Kevlar guideboat. If you are looking for flat water rowing they are just fabulous boats. You have 8’ long oars. I was up in the Sierra last summer and all the canoes and kayaks were trying to get off the lake when the wind came up. Many were pinned on the shore. They all told my wife and I not to go out, but we shoved off and had enough mechanical advantage that we could go where we pleased with ease. One of the nice things about them is you sit facing each other and you can carry a load. I have the sliding seat option which I have not used as much as I would like, but you can row it for exercise if you like. They have fabulous fair lines and handle so sweetly. The “Adirondack Guideboat” by Ken and Helen Durant is a must read if you are into rowing boats

(oooh look, my first post! Hi everybody.)

I built a plywood canoe a couple of years ago
Attachment 383233
It is a Quick Canoe from Michael Storer. It took me 4 weekends from buying the plywood to launch. The instructions were comprehensive. Since then, I've had it on rivers
Attachment 383234

lakes
Attachment 383235

and the sea where it handles up to 6ft swell just fine.

For a first boat/canoe builder (as I was), I found the plans and instructions clear, straightforward and pretty much idiotproof. It helps that the designer has an active Facebook page, where I could ask questions and get answers too. Having said that, it's not the lightest canoe ever - his Eureka and forthcoming Viola designs are more elegant and lightweight - but it's pretty much bulletproof and with the added airtight bulkheads, will keep its gunwales above the surface when full of water (don't ask me how I know this).

The earlier post about size and displacement being important to consider reminds me of the first strip canoe I built in 2014, a Wee Lassie II from Mac McCarthy's book. I am just over 7 feet tall and when I paddled this canoe my feet and eventually legs would go to sleep since they were up in the bow where the bottom was quite V shaped. I was fine for about 1/2 hour at a time, but then I would have to get out, otherwise when I did get out after a longer stint I would be unable to stand. Falling over backward into a lake is not a terrible experience, but it's a bit inconvenient at times. In 2015 I built a Kite (designed by John Winters) on the recommendation of a much more experienced builder, and it is both much more comfortable and handles much better. It's designed as a high seat solo but I use mine as a pack boat with a low seat due to my size. I've had it out in Lake Ontario in 2-3 foot waves pretty safely, but only for a mile or two at a time. It also does well in rivers or tight areas because it has differential rocker that makes it easy to spin around but it also tracks pretty well. I highly recommend the Kite, especially for taller/heavier people who may not fit in smaller designs nicely.
Zach

Michael,
Welcome to the forum!
Nice job on the canoe, that craft would be very usable in my area with a large river system fed by back waters, lagoons, wildlife refuges and other sources. I've seen the design before although refresh me if you would. What is the OAL, beam and approximate weight? You're certainly right about Mr. Storer, I've discussed his "Goat Island Skiff" with him in the past and he's very helpful. Even in the back waters of a refuge, there's occasionally some 1/2 waves, how secure is this boat in that kind of environment?
Thanks,
Mac

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Michael Mules

(oooh look, my first post! Hi everybody.)

I built a plywood canoe a couple of years ago
Attachment 383233
It is a Quick Canoe from Michael Storer. It took me 4 weekends from buying the plywood to launch. The instructions were comprehensive. Since then, I've had it on rivers
Attachment 383234

lakes
Attachment 383235

and the sea where it handles up to 6ft swell just fine.

For a first boat/canoe builder (as I was), I found the plans and instructions clear, straightforward and pretty much idiotproof. It helps that the designer has an active Facebook page, where I could ask questions and get answers too. Having said that, it's not the lightest canoe ever - his Eureka and forthcoming Viola designs are more elegant and lightweight - but it's pretty much bulletproof and with the added airtight bulkheads, will keep its gunwales above the surface when full of water (don't ask me how I know this).

---

Hi Mac,
its OAL is just on 4.7m (about 15 1/2 ft, I think), beam is 83cm. I used heavy 6mm marine ply from Bunnings (because it was cheap) and added watertight bulkheads and an extra seat in the middle instead of a spreader, so mine comes in at around 33kg - light enough to lift onto the roof of my car, but heavy enough that put it on wheels rather than carry it for any great distance. I probably could have got the weight down to around 20-25kg with a better (but more expensive) and thinner choice of ply.

It handles chop and swell just fine. I take it out in-shore on Bass Strait when the wind's not too bad and it handles little 2 foot shorebreaks just fine, and out the back is comfortable in 5 foot swells, even in a following sea (the airtight bulkheads help a lot with that). I've been on lakes in it with a couple of 20 knot blows, and it was fine with the chop from them.

Michael,
Thanks for all the information. I would have to make a few mods to get the weight down to a bare minimum(tired back) although it sounds like it would work really well for my needs. Did you use any epoxy or fiberglass in the construction? I might be able to carve a few pounds(kg) if I'm careful w/ the trimmings. I like the water tight bulkheads, I'm a decent swimmer although if you take a dip in cold water back in the refuge, it might take a bit to get back in the boat.
Mac

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Michael Mules

Hi Mac,
its OAL is just on 4.7m (about 15 1/2 ft, I think), beam is 83cm. I used heavy 6mm marine ply from Bunnings (because it was cheap) and added watertight bulkheads and an extra seat in the middle instead of a spreader, so mine comes in at around 33kg - light enough to lift onto the roof of my car, but heavy enough that put it on wheels rather than carry it for any great distance. I probably could have got the weight down to around 20-25kg with a better (but more expensive) and thinner choice of ply.

It handles chop and swell just fine. I take it out in-shore on Bass Strait when the wind's not too bad and it handles little 2 foot shorebreaks just fine, and out the back is comfortable in 5 foot swells, even in a following sea (the airtight bulkheads help a lot with that). I've been on lakes in it with a couple of 20 knot blows, and it was fine with the chop from them.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mac McQuinn

Did you use any epoxy or fiberglass in the construction? I might be able to carve a few pounds(kg) if I'm careful w/ the trimmings.
Mac

---

Hi Mac, no fiberglass, except for at the outside seams. The entire construction was coated with epoxy inside and out, and all pieces epoxied together (no chines). And it has stood up to being heavily abused, being dragged over snags and rocks, bashed into submerged trees and bounced over logs and rapids. The keel being sacrificial helps, as it has soaked up some serious abuse.
Attachment 383362

Michael,
Thanks for the info. Perhaps a laminated hardwood 1/4" "shoe on the keel would provide some extra protection. Tougher than softwood, once it wears down, plane it off and stick a new on on.
Mac

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Michael Mules

Hi Mac, no fiberglass, except for at the outside seams. The entire construction was coated with epoxy inside and out, and all pieces epoxied together (no chines). And it has stood up to being heavily abused, being dragged over snags and rocks, bashed into submerged trees and bounced over logs and rapids. The keel being sacrificial helps, as it has soaked up some serious abuse.
Attachment 383362

---

My father-in-law had the same desire and went to Brooklin, Maine for a week long course in traditional canvas canoe building. He was thrilled with the experience and knowledge base there and can't wait to go back for another course. It is far from you in Georgia but I believe they are quite popular with students from all over the country

https://www.thewoodenboatschool.com/...nvas-canoe.php

Hoang,

Last year about this time I built a skin on frame kayak and I have to tell you it was an incredible experience. I've always loved boats and after doing a lot of research I went in this direction for a number of reasons. Boat building is a very deep discipline and there are a lot of methods for design and construction with the strong opinions to go along with them.

Personally I learn best by doing and the skin on frame method of construction allows you to build with much less cost (all told I think I was under $600 including wood, skin, hardware, footrests, etc.) and iterate pretty quickly, all while learning about lofting, the jargon unique to boat building, wood selection, etc. For me it was also a departure from "fine" woodworking in that a lot of boat building is more or less carpentry - so don't worry about your card scraper! Things can move faster than if you were building a piece of furniture.

I bought a book (Building the Greenland Kayak), did a bunch of research and then read an article titled "Lifting Offsets from Scale Drawings by Harvey Golden" which allowed me to come up with most of the dimensions needed to decipher Brian Schulz's kayak design called the F1. From picking up the book to paddling took about a month.

I bring that up because his kayak is quite a good design and he has just released plans for a canoe he is working on - https://cape-falcon-kayak.thinkific....uilding-course. If I didn't already have a canoe I would absolutely be tempted. I didn't use one of his courses because I really wanted to figure out each step on my own and get into the history of these boats - a "journey is the destination" type of thing. But I would say if I had to do it over again I would just buy the course and get on with it.

Here's what it looks like.

https://thinkific-import.s3.amazonaw...O_66_card5.jpg

Where do you buy 18 foot cedar strips for a canoe?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bill Bukovec

Where do you buy 18 foot cedar strips for a canoe?

---

1. Grow them and mill them.
2. Learn to scarf shorter lengths to suit.
3. Inherit a large fortune so you can afford to special order extra long lengths of stock. Twenty foot planks are to be had if you have the funds and the transport to handle them.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bill Bukovec

Where do you buy 18 foot cedar strips for a canoe?

---

When I built mine (pictures on page 1)... I went to a lumber supplier outside of Toronto. They had huge buildings to store wood indoors and let me rummage through the stacks of Western Red Cedar and I picked out I think it was 3 or 4 planks 20 feet long and about one foot wide. I took them back to where I live and just outside of town there is a Home Hardware store with a lumber mill in the back. I took the planks there and they used the big bandsaw to cut them into 1/4 " strips for me. I bundled them all up on the roof of the car and took them home and got started....