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I aim to finish these about the time the new master bedroom remodel completes. Otherwise they will clog up the shop until I have somewhere to put them. These are styled after the blanket chest I shared here which is part of the new bedroom suite.
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Carcasses mainly done. Starting on drawer boxes.
Starting to take shape Glenn! Looking forward to future pics.
I wish you lived here in PA Glenn, as I would become your apprentice (whether you liked it or not :) ). Your eye for design always stands out for me, and your methods through each project just make so much sense... I learn by looking around each of your pics and seeing your jigs and operations in the peripheral. And, always well-documented.
The outside curves are just the right amount both here and on the blanket chest. Really love it!
Very Nice Glenn. Inspirational as always.
I mill some scrap to the same dimensions as the drawer box stock. I make a couple of test cuts to get the fit I am after. Once I have it I cut a couple inches off each board and use these as setup blocks for the rest of the project.
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I epoxied a small block of scrap on the end of this featherboard so long ago I don't remember when it was. I use it as a stop block on occasion. Here I am cutting out the rear of the drawer box for the under mount slides.
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Second cut at another bandsaw.
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I shellac and sand the interior of the drawer and the bottom prior to assembly.
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I tend to do a whole drawer for each project prior to cranking out the rest. I need to make sure I am remembering everything about installing them :rolleyes:
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Seems to work.
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Now for the rest.
Looks fantastic! I love the curves on the side/legs! Look forward to the rest of the bill. Thanks for posting!
Those look great Glenn. I like how the legs give them a solid and inviting look.
Moving along. False fronts selected, roughed out, jointed, planed, and ripped to final height.
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Small wedges let me center a piece of scrap to verify my height measurement visually.
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Now confident I rip the false fronts to final height.
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My back is winning the battle of wills today so I will crosscut them to length tomorrow and carry on.
Drawer fronts cut to final size and profiled a-la "Maloof Round".
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No surface prep yet but this is the general drawer front field look.
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Like the way the grain continues across the drawers, cherry I assume. Drawer profiles look good!
Thanks Mark. I try to use continuous or book-matched grain on the 'in your face' surfaces. I have a twisted sense of humor and it gives me a kick. I often do the same on drawer pulls if the surfaces are large enough to show it.
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I get a kick out of clients calling months later having 'discovered' this :D.
Glen I love the drawer pulls beautiful.i can’t imagine layout and time involved in making them.beautiful work.
Thanks Jim. There are some tasks that we just consider tedious. The tasks involved with the final shaping of joinery, pulls and other design elements I consider the "fun" part.
Wowsah! Very nicely done, Glenn!Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn bradley
Laying on the color coat.
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Nice Glenn. Did you use seal coat thinned 50/50 X2? And what is your color mix?
That looks great. Looking forward to seeing the drawer fronts pull it together.
Sorry for the delay in answering. Where I use shellac on the inside areas (to avoid off gas smells) I hit canned Seal Coat with DNA at 50:50. I use an oil varnish mix with some Transtint dye for color as a base coat on show areas. The cherry will color nicely on its own but I give it a jump start with a base coat of dye in McCloskey spar, BLO, and mineral spirits.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Rainey
I don't usually use the word "thrilled" but I am thrilled to get back to work on these.
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I was happy to get the base color coat and sealer coat on before my hand surgery. I anticipated a couple of weeks recovery that turned into four. At any rate; I sand the sealer coat to eliminate any irregularities.
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I keep an eye out for clearance on shower curtains of a good weight. I have picked up quite a few for a couple of bucks over the years.
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They make good heavy drop cloths that last a surprisingly long time.
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The "arc wedges" I am using to give me ground clearance are actually the cut outs from my DC pipe hangers from years ago.
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I have tacked (a rag squirted with mineral spirits) all the parts and am ready to start in with the film coat. I am still not 100% so we will see how far I get. I plan to take the process in bite-sized chunks so I don't get myself into trouble :D.
I had to do a repair on a surface defect that I missed. Whatever the process problem was I did it on one board of both tops before glue up. I stripped both tops and am in the process of refinishing them. I have a coat or two to go but since the latest coat is dry to the touch I can make some sawdust.
I got the final OK from SWMBO on the pulls. They will be very dark Peruvian walnut to strike a contrast with the cherry. I got the final OK on a form that I have used for other people's dressers but never for anything in our house. Here is one with walnut pulls from about 7 years ago.
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I think LOML was always unhappy that this one went to someone else. Maybe this is her way of getting some of that back :D.
The pulls will use 8-32 inserts for attachment. This also helps with the shaping of the pulls while making them. I use a sort of trammel rig at the edge sander. Then a fence at the spindle sander.
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The actual pulls will be quite dark. The one shown is just a mock up to make sure I remember the procedure from 7 years ago :D
Neat!
I can see those in aluminum or stainless on a deco influenced piece!
A little more work on the pulls. Second coat of dye will be darker.
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Very, very nice! Glenn do you spray your finishes? if yes, why do you prefer that vs. brush on?
Thanks!
For small things that will get a lot of handling like drawer or door pulls I will top coat whatever else I do with a rattle can lacquer. For the main pieces I use an old school wipe-on oil varnish blend. I used to use Cabot's modified phenolic that was an early synthetic varnish. It has all but disappeared from California along with a few other decent, reliable products (a problem you can possibly relate to; I used to live in Vista and am now an hour or so north).Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Allen1010
I tried a few General Finishes products and some others with results other than what I was after :rolleyes: and have currently landed on McCloskey's SPAR 7509. I blend this with varying ratios of BLO, mineral spirits, and Japan Drier depending on what I am after. The gloss varnish component yields a satin / semi-gloss finish when wiped off.
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This is only useful if you are after the semi-gloss / satin finish I frequently use. For a gloss finish I currently brush as I have not yet gotten good enough at spraying to get a good consistent result.
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I am still working on the spraying skill but often fall back to "what I know" since I am getting older and lazier :D
thanks Glenn- super helpful!
I also rely on wipe/brush on finishes primarily because I don't have the space for spraying set up etc.